What size hitch ball do I need for the 28BHS? I presume it is the same for the 21 series...
Should be a two inch, same as 21BHS.
My QS is 2" as well, so I have a gut feeling that just about all the trailers run off a 2" ball.
[font size="3"][font face="arial"]As I've said before there are no dumb questions. Just dumb answers, and we try to minimize those. Camp on :)
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Then I could have a problem. The specs for a 2 inch ball are: •Weight capacity 2" hitch ball: 600-lb tongue weight; 6,000-lb gross towing weight
The gross weight on the 28BHS is 7000 pounds: Dry Weight *4,250 lbs. Load Capacity: *2,750 lbs. I will send them an email to be sure.
From etrailer.com:
"Three ball diameters sizes are available: 1-7/8", 2" and 2-5/16". The 1-7/8" balls are typically used on smaller trailers and have a weight capacity of 2,000 lbs. The 2" balls are used on medium sized trailers and have a weight capacity of up to 8,000 lbs. The 2-5/16" balls are used for heavy duty trailers and have a weight capacity of up to 30,000 lbs."
They can certainly take more than a 600 pound tongue weight. Perhaps the particular hitch you were looking at is rated at 600 lb tongue weight.
But as you said, check with LivinLite to make sure.
[quote source="/post/2352/thread" timestamp="1407265635" author="@funpilot"]Then I could have a problem. The specs for a 2 inch ball are: •Weight capacity 2" hitch ball: 600-lb tongue weight; 6,000-lb gross towing weight
The gross weight on the 28BHS is 7000 pounds: Dry Weight *4,250 lbs. Load Capacity: *2,750 lbs. I will send them an email to be sure.
[/quote]If you want to be on the safe side use a "medium shank" ball and ball mount. The shank on those are 1-1/4" and the ratings are significantly higher. Were you going to use a WDH? If so, they usually specify a particular ball. In my case the E2 requires a 1-1/4" shank ball rated at 8,000lbs
[p]Here is LL's response:
Robert,
All of our Camplites come with the 2" coupler. The size of the ball really doesn't make much difference, it is the class of your hitch. You will need a "class IV" hitch with a 7way(round) plug. I would suggest buying just a standard 2" ball, I wouldn't spend the extra money on the three way unless you plan on using the other balls. Most common ball and recievers usually have a 1" drop/rise and give you the ability to flip it over giving you extra height or make it lower. The hitch height on our camplites are at approx. 17". Depending on what your using as a tow vehicle, you will want the trailer as level as possible when towing.
I plan on using the Equalizer. I will just let the dealer install it as this is their preferred hitch. I do have a class 4 hitch with a 7 way rounded plug. [/p][p]
[/p][p]Just an observation for those who wonder if the factory is responsive. I got my response in less than 20 minutes!!! [/p]
[quote source="/post/2356/thread" timestamp="1407268780" author="@funpilot"][p]Here is LL's response:
Robert,
All of our Camplites come with the 2" coupler. The size of the ball really doesn't make much difference, it is the class of your hitch. You will need a "class IV" hitch with a 7way(round) plug. I would suggest buying just a standard 2" ball, I wouldn't spend the extra money on the three way unless you plan on using the other balls. Most common ball and recievers usually have a 1" drop/rise and give you the ability to flip it over giving you extra height or make it lower. The hitch height on our camplites are at approx. 17". Depending on what your using as a tow vehicle, you will want the trailer as level as possible when towing.
I plan on using the Equalizer. I will just let the dealer install it as this is their preferred hitch. I do have a class 4 hitch with a 7 way rounded plug. [/p][p]
[/p][p]Just an observation for those who wonder if the factory is responsive. I got my response in less than 20 minutes!!! [/p][/quote]Equalizers use the same balls as the E2, so you'll end up with a 2" ball with a 1-1/4" shank. Are you getting the off-road package? If so, the hitch will be higher than 17"
I ran out of money so not getting the off-road package. Thanks for the feedback as always.
I use a Class IV forged ball mount from Northern Tool. My pickup is only rated for 6300lbs max capacity,
Installed a Nissan hitch.
The ball mount I use is rated for 17,000lbs and 1700lbs tongue weight.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612684_200612684
The 2" ball I use is rated for 7500lbs:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200617243_200617243
Thanks exploringcarolina!
[quote source="/post/2352/thread" timestamp="1407265635" author="@funpilot"]Then I could have a problem. The specs for a 2 inch ball are: •Weight capacity 2" hitch ball: 600-lb tongue weight; 6,000-lb gross towing weight
The gross weight on the 28BHS is 7000 pounds: Dry Weight *4,250 lbs. Load Capacity: *2,750 lbs. I will send them an email to be sure.
[/quote]Funpilot,
I hope you are not planning on loading that trailer to it's max GVWR. The two axles add up to GAWR = 7000#. If you do stay below the 7000# GVWR (weight on axles + tongue weight) you may be below GVWR, but any WDH will transfer weight to the trailer axles. Other folks on other forums are having trouble with Dexter 3500# single axles fully loaded. They bend and camber disappears. Bad tire wear and axle damage result. You really don't want to max out those axles.
I am hoping to never exceed 5500, more likely 5200. What would you consider too close?
[quote source="/post/2362/thread" timestamp="1407278133" author="@charliem"][quote source="/post/2352/thread" timestamp="1407265635" author="@funpilot"]Then I could have a problem. The specs for a 2 inch ball are: •Weight capacity 2" hitch ball: 600-lb tongue weight; 6,000-lb gross towing weight
The gross weight on the 28BHS is 7000 pounds: Dry Weight *4,250 lbs. Load Capacity: *2,750 lbs. I will send them an email to be sure.
[/quote]Funpilot,
I hope you are not planning on loading that trailer to it's max GVWR. The two axles add up to GAWR = 7000#. If you do stay below the 7000# GVWR (weight on axles + tongue weight) you may be below GVWR, but any WDH will transfer weight to the trailer axles. Other folks on other forums are having trouble with Dexter 3500# single axles fully loaded. They bend and camber disappears. Bad tire wear and axle damage result. You really don't want to max out those axles.
[/quote][p]I just went out and looked at what LL is installing. ( Dexter ™ Independent Torsion Suspension) I do not see anything about camber. Are these different than the ones that have had issues? [/p][p]
[/p][p][a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzVVqXxbGSA"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzVVqXxbGSA[/a][/p][p]
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[quote source="/post/2363/thread" timestamp="1407280965" author="@funpilot"]I am hoping to never exceed 5500, more likely 5200. What would you consider too close? [/quote]If you can stay at 5500 total I'd say you're good. That would give you 1250# above advertised empty weight. I'd be concerned if you approached 6000.
[font size="3"]Camber is the axle alignment property that causes the wheels to angle inward very slightly at the bottom. It is built into the axle and also results in the slight upward bow in the middle of the axles. Under extreme loading the axle straightens and the bow disappears. The result is the wheels angle slightly outward at the bottom and tires wear on the inside edges. At this point the axle can be permanently damaged and needs replacement ($$$).
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