Archive - Aluminium Camper Forum

What modifications are people doing to carry bikes or strap down coolers,rubbermaids, etc.

We attached 4 L brackets to the rear deck, each placed so that the brackets fit within the ridges of a quite large, 53 gal Contico plastic bin (here's a link to it at Lowes:  http://www.lowes.com/pd_91573-230-L3725-4_0__?productId=3734569&Ntt=contico&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dcontico&facetInfo= ). The bin fits pretty tightly inside the L brackets and when we tie it down with two straps, it is absolutely stable. The bin is so large that it holds everything we need that doesn't fit for travel inside our QS6. It "lives" on the rear deck and provides good waterproof storage at the campsite after we've deployed its contents for their camping purposes.

[attachment id="247" thumbnail="1"]

Incidentally, I meant to add that, because the L brackets keep the bin in place, we simply pass the tie down straps around the underside of the rear deck and over the top of the bin. No D rings or other attachments required.

I installed Aluminum S tracks along the 4 edges, and bought  several S track tie down stud rings. I can move these around easily to strap down stuff.  Usually, I put 2 large storage bins back there but I've also stapled the kids bikes there once. I'll try to upload pictures.

Not sure if this will insert correctly, but here's a shot of the A track and rings on up the rear deck of my QS10. I think you can click to see a bigger version.

[attachment id="258" thumbnail="1"]

[quote source="/post/2320/thread" timestamp="1407172948" author="@subaruwx"]Not sure if this will insert correctly, but here's a shot of the A track and rings on up the rear deck of my QS10. I think you can click to see a bigger version.

[/quote]That looks awesome. They should come from the factory like that.

I wish I would of gotten the rear deck :(

[quote source="/post/2320/thread" timestamp="1407172948" author="@subaruwx"]Not sure if this will insert correctly, but here's a shot of the A track and rings on up the rear deck of my QS10. I think you can click to see a bigger version.

[/quote]That is exactly what I want to do on the rear deck on my 6.0.   Do you mind if I ask a few questions?

1. Where did you purchase your tracks and what sizes?
2. What hardware did you use to fasten the track to the deck?
3. Was it difficult to clear electrical wires running through the aluminum tubes?

Thanks,
John

Quote from: @mark" source="/post/2464/thread" timestamp="1407869257I wish I would of gotten the rear deck :(

I dont have a rear deck either, but I was thinking about adding a 2" receiver to the bumper which would allow for a rack at least. Problem is I'm not sure how much weight and torque the rear bumper can withstand. On the relatively thin 2" wide aluminum bumper I would imagine even 50 pounds about two feet out could generate a lot of force when bouncing up and down on the highway.

I was then thinking about to possibility of having the bumper reinforced with another 2" section tied into the frame rails. I think that would add plenty of strength but I dont know what kind of cost that would add.

Something like this would easily add the 2" receiver to the 2" bumper: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C6TZCM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2VW77N4QAH029&coliid=I1YQCUEO8XYLED
Or something like this would be great if it had 4" of material: http://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufacturing-19100-Travel-Trailer/dp/B0007M1ZGE/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=187FZFNP1Q21GH7ANKHT
With the receiver it would be easy to then add a rack like this: http://www.amazon.com/TMS-ALUM-CCR-2260A-60-Inch-Generator-Aluminum/dp/B0049J3SK2/ref=pd_sim_auto_59?ie=UTF8&refRID=14FRXMBD0KQ9QDZXQAGZ

But by that point your already talking in the area of $150 not including any work to have the 2" bumper reinforced.

I've also heard that with aluminum being rather soft and reactive it could create problems when using bolt on products. I'm not sure how much of that is just hear-say, but the last thing I want is to have a rack full of my stuff go flying off while heading down the road simply because the bumper was too weak to begin with.


-Sean

I added two strips of L-Track. One on top of the bumper and one as close as possible to the body of the camper. It's the aluminum track that is used to mount airline seats. The surface mount version that I used has 45 degree beveled edges and you can attach a tie-down ring anywhere at about 1 inch intervals. With that and ratchet straps, I can securely attach about anything that I want to.

At this point, I've got an aluminum tool box that I got at Tractor Supply attached to the rear deck.

[quote source="/post/2465/thread" timestamp="1407870025" author="@qs6"][quote source="/post/2320/thread" timestamp="1407172948" author="@subaruwx"]Not sure if this will insert correctly, but here's a shot of the A track and rings on up the rear deck of my QS10. I think you can click to see a bigger version.

[/quote]That is exactly what I want to do on the rear deck on my 6.0.   Do you mind if I ask a few questions?

1. Where did you purchase your tracks and what sizes?
2. What hardware did you use to fasten the track to the deck?
3. Was it difficult to clear electrical wires running through the aluminum tubes?

Thanks,
John[/quote]


The S track and anchors are a slick, convenient, and expensive solution. I got the S track and anchors from Amazon. The exact silver pieces I ordered don't appear to be available anymore, but this is the same stuff from the same vendor at Amazon:
ALUMINUM S TRACK KIT BLACK
http://amzn.com/B008TU6DQI

They might have the kit in Silver as well.

I bought 12 anchors and 4 count of the 48in S tracks - total cost was ~ $150.

I used a hack saw to cut the pieces to fit on the sides, and my Dremel to smooth the edges. I used stainless steel screws to attach the strips to the rear deck, which I carefully pre-drilled. The aluminum is soft, so you want to just drill deep enough for the screws to catch.  Then I used a bore bit to make a wedge opening in the S track so the screws would sit flush.

I didn't even try to clear any electrical wire - I just made sure to keep my attaching screws away from the tail lights.  If I can figure out how, I'll copy the other figures from the old Yahoo site.

Found my old photos and notes. I used 3 6ft lengths, not 4ft lengths as I stated above. I mounted one 6ft length on top at the end, one cut to fit against the diamond plating between the bunk support brackets, and 2 short ones along the side. The side mounts are not on the top, but along the side. I thought it looked cleaner.

The brackets for the bunk supports prevent the track from running the full length. The aluminum decking is pretty thin, so I mounted the track against the diamond plating so I knew it would screw into the thicker aluminum framing.

Thanks subaruwx for all the details.   Let me jump on Amazon.com and see what I can find.

Do you remember what type of stainless steel screws you used?   Were they self tapping?  How long?  What diameter?

Thanks again.
John

I don't remember the diameter - but you can decide what fits yourself, then drill the right size holes. They were not self tapping, and they weren't long - probably only 1/2 in. I remember I put some LockTite on each screw to help hold them tight.  

I suggest for those who want to try this, find the S track first, then you can fit the screw size, then drill for the right diameter.   I did this a year ago, but I remember the biggest pain was  counter sinking into the S track to the right width and depth for the screws. The key is to drill for the screw width first, then switch to the counter sink bit. Note that the aluminum is soft, and I actually used a wood counter sink bit for the first few before I destroyed the bit and  switched to a counter sink bit made for metal.

I ended up installing D-Rings.  Worked great for carrying 2 rubbermaids and our cooler.  So glad I got the bumper extension, was very useful for storing extra stuff like the carrying cases for grill and canopy.  Also was a nice dry spot for our wood.

Thinking about doing the L track like subaruwx but I have a question - as I read your description you aren't able to get to the backside to use bolts so are using very short screws -is this right?

Right - I used screws, not bolts.  Put some LockTite or similar to help secure the screw.

[quote source="/post/2519/thread" timestamp="1407901038" author="@subaruwx"]Found my old photos and notes. I used 3 6ft lengths, not 4ft lengths as I stated above. I mounted one 6ft length on top at the end, one cut to fit against the diamond plating between the bunk support brackets, and 2 short ones along the side. The side mounts are not on the top, but along the side. I thought it looked cleaner.

The brackets for the bunk supports prevent the track from running the full length. The aluminum decking is pretty thin, so I mounted the track against the diamond plating so I knew it would screw into the thicker aluminum framing.


[/quote]I took Sub's idea and just did short strips on the sides of the deck. I got the strips from State Trailer. It did not turn out to be extremely expensive (I think $20 a track). I use rope to tie down my stuff and voila. I also added this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00174ZHGU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

to my deck so that I could use my bicycle hitch rack. I just drilled the holes into my deck and attached it around the center brace of the deck. This way there is almost no interference with using your deck and you can push it out as far as you want. I have the hitch fairly far forward so that the deck supports some of the weight of the rack.

Let us know how that hitch receiver works. I've been thinking about bike rack solutions for a while, and this is an appealing option. I keep reading where others strongly recommend against this unless the aluminum beam support is strengthened. But on a QS with a rear deck, it's already somewhat stronger than a standard bumper.

I'm really curious also to hear how it tows with the extra weight on the rear.  Very exciting!  At least as far as bike rack solutions go...

[quote source="/post/3643/thread" timestamp="1411007029" author="@subaruwx"]Let us know how that hitch receiver works. I've been thinking about bike rack solutions for a while, and this is an appealing option. I keep reading where others strongly recommend against this unless the aluminum beam support is strengthened. But on a QS with a rear deck, it's already somewhat stronger than a standard bumper.

I'm really curious also to hear how it tows with the extra weight on the rear.  Very exciting!  At least as far as bike rack solutions go...[/quote]I have had one trip with it. I had four bikes on the rack. It pulled great. The rack stem was so long that the bikes hung over the rear of the deck, so my deck was completely free for storage. I thought that is would fishtail, but it did fine. I thought that it would create a serious drag also, but that was not even noticeable. I put a block of wood under the rear end of the rack to help support the weight of the bikes.

bikes go into the jeep.  had an aluminum tool box welded to the back of my 6.0.  light weight.  good for minor (light weight) storage items.
 [attachment id="371" thumbnail="1"][attachment id="373" thumbnail="1"]

[quote source="/post/2603/thread" timestamp="1407984207" author="@subaruwx"]I don't remember the diameter - but you can decide what fits yourself, then drill the right size holes. They were not self tapping, and they weren't long - probably only 1/2 in. I remember I put some LockTite on each screw to help hold them tight.  

I suggest for those who want to try this, find the S track first, then you can fit the screw size, then drill for the right diameter.   I did this a year ago, but I remember the biggest pain was  counter sinking into the S track to the right width and depth for the screws. The key is to drill for the screw width first, then switch to the counter sink bit. Note that the aluminum is soft, and I actually used a wood counter sink bit for the first few before I destroyed the bit and  switched to a counter sink bit made for metal. [/quote]
Hi subaruwx,

Finally received my track.  It came pre-drilled.  Looks like 1/4" holes so I'm guessing the screws will need to be 1/4" sheet metal screws.  What is your recommendation on the size hole I should drill?  I'm thinking 1/4" hole would be too big.  How much smaller were the holes you drilled as compared to the size of the screws you used?

Thanks,
John

[quote source="/post/3714/thread" timestamp="1411363805" author="@lemieux"]bikes go into the jeep.  had an aluminum tool box welded to the back of my 6.0.  light weight.  good for minor (light weight) storage items.
 
[/quote]
Hi, this is a very interesting mod, did you did that yourself or went to a shop to get it done? Is it possible to take a picture and see how it is underneat? And where did you found this aluminium box?  Thank you!

[quote source="/post/3719/thread" timestamp="1411395210" author="@qs6"][quote source="/post/2603/thread" timestamp="1407984207" author="@subaruwx"]I don't remember the diameter - but you can decide what fits yourself, then drill the right size holes. They were not self tapping, and they weren't long - probably only 1/2 in. I remember I put some LockTite on each screw to help hold them tight.  

I suggest for those who want to try this, find the S track first, then you can fit the screw size, then drill for the right diameter.   I did this a year ago, but I remember the biggest pain was  counter sinking into the S track to the right width and depth for the screws. The key is to drill for the screw width first, then switch to the counter sink bit. Note that the aluminum is soft, and I actually used a wood counter sink bit for the first few before I destroyed the bit and  switched to a counter sink bit made for metal. [/quote]Hi subaruwx,

Finally received my track.  It came pre-drilled.  Looks like 1/4" holes so I'm guessing the screws will need to be 1/4" sheet metal screws.  What is your recommendation on the size hole I should drill?  I'm thinking 1/4" hole would be too big.  How much smaller were the holes you drilled as compared to the size of the screws you used?

Thanks,
John[/quote]A regular multipurpose bit will work. I'd suggest you choose a bit that is slightly smaller in diameter than the shaft of the screw (not including the threads). The aluminum is soft - it will be easy to thread. Go ahead and get stainless steel screws - they will last longer.  Test on the underside of the read deck before you drill into the top and make sure your screw fits as tight as you want. 

I installed my L-Track and a couple D-rings over the past weekend on my QS6 platform.  As my deck is only 46" long x 19.5" deep, this seemed like a good solution.   The d-rings I centered on the rear bumper and used 1/4" x 3" long bolts with 2.5" fender washers and locking nuts on the back to secure them all the way through the bumper for additional support.   The d-rings also have rubber strips between the bumper and d-ring and d-ring and bracket to keep them from clanging around when not in use.

The L-Track I installed with 1/4" x 1" stainless steel sheet metal screws (picture below).  I purchased the [a href="http://www.cargoequipmentcorp.com/L-Track-Logistics-p/fe750-100-pd4.htm"][/a][a href="http://www.cargoequipmentcorp.com/L-Track-Logistics-p/fe750-100-pd4.htm"]L-Track from cargoequipment.com[/a].  100" for $52 + shipping.  I was originally drilling 3/16" (.1875" dia) pilot holes.  These were very nice an tight, but actually too tight as I broke the head off the fifth stainless steel screw I was driving in with an impact driver.   Lot's of fun getting this screw out.   For the remaining screws I switched to drilling a 13/64" (.2031" dia) pilot hole and although not quite as tight, I didn't break off any more screw heads.   :)



(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7456389/ltrack.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7456389/screw.JPG)

Loaded up this past Friday and headed out for a weekend of camping.  Everything traveled great.  The only problem is the license plate was blocked.  Will have to figure something out.



(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7456389/loaded.JPG)

Yes! Pictures please!

Agree with subaruwx...pictures please

Apologies for the crummy pic.  Trailer is in the garage, behind the bike.  To get it out for a pic is a lot of work.

You get the idea.  I'll try to get a better pic when I take get it out next weekend.

[attachment id="399" thumbnail="1"]

[quote source="/post/4141/thread" timestamp="1412712354" author="@jammo"]Apologies for the crummy pic.  Trailer is in the garage, behind the bike.  To get it out for a pic is a lot of work.

You get the idea.  I'll try to get a better pic when I take get it out next weekend.


[/quote]Better pics of the rack I created when my dealer missed the stock deck in the order.  

First pic.  You can see the L bracket mounted to the back of the QS under the rack.  This pic also shows the small spacer I cut out of square aluminum stock.  There is one of these on either side of the rack.  They're needed because the 2" tube that the steel receiver bar would have been bolted into is still on the rack.  That can be seen in the 3rd pic.

Second pic shows the bolts drilled down through the rack and L bracket.  I used flat washers and nyloc nuts on all the bolts.

Third pic shows the rack and the receiver bar tube that I hope to use to add a bike rack.  

As mentioned, I've carried wood, coolers, and anything I don't want inside the car, or won't fit in the QS.  It's not as strong as the stock platform would be, but i've carried 200lbs of wood, coolers, and other sundry items.  It's also very easy to strap items down to this rack with ratchet-style straps.  And it fits nicely between the bed support brackets.
 

[attachment id="410" thumbnail="1"]  [attachment id="411" thumbnail="1"]  [attachment id="413" thumbnail="1"]

My QS6.0 with the factory rear deck has the wheels offset to the rear of the camper to accommodate the weight of anything carried on the rear deck so as not to affect trailer towing. How did 200lbs on your rear deck affect the handling of the trailer?

[quote source="/post/4455/thread" author="@warren" timestamp="1414421634"]My QS6.0 with the factory rear deck has the wheels offset to the rear of the camper to accommodate the weight of anything carried on the rear deck so as not to affect trailer towing. How did 200lbs on your rear deck affect the handling of the trailer? [/quote][font size="3"]How do you know this? Did you measure a QS6.0 of the same model year without the deck? If this is true, LL deserves a lot of credit for their engineering  :).[/font]

On a shorter/lighter trailer like the 6.0, it wouldn't surprise me to see there was some slight rearward wheel positioning to compensate for the weight of the rear deck and gear.  As you move the wheels rearward, you add tongue weight that counterbalances the trailer.  A smaller trailer won't overload the tongue of the smaller cars/larger motorcycles this trailer is designed to be towed behind.  

On an 8.1 or larger, moving the wheels rearward even a slight amount could/would add a lot more tongue weight.  I don't think 200 pounds of rack/gear adds enough weight to justify having to modify the balance point of the trailer.

So in towing the 8.1 with 150+ pounds of gear weight on the 20 pound rack, I really haven't noticed any change in how the trailer tows.  Have been out with a full rack of wood/coolers/etc. 3 times this month already.  :-)

No I did not measure the location of the axle but looking at side pictures of the 2015 QS6.0 you can see that the wheels on the rear deck trailer are closer to the rear of the trailer. Plus the dealer confirmed the more rear ward location of the axle. It doesn't really matter now because the QS6.0 I bought has the read deck but when I was shopping I had given thought to adding a rear deck and was concerned about tow ability. It is good to know that the additional gear hanging off the rear of the trailer does not negatively affect the handling.

Jammo, it seems that your deck is a much better design than the original one! Congrats!

Is this your rack?

http://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-aluminum-cargo-carrier-92655.html

Did you consider removing the receiver tube or at least modifying it to avoid using spacers? Adding a bike rack to the receiver seems like a good idea, but I am really worried about the extra weight / torque.

[quote source="/post/2667/thread" timestamp="1408196594" author="@johnny9k"]I ended up installing D-Rings.  Worked great for carrying 2 rubbermaids and our cooler.  So glad I got the bumper extension, was very useful for storing extra stuff like the carrying cases for grill and canopy.  Also was a nice dry spot for our wood.

[/quote]I like this D-ring configuration because the surface of the deck is still smooth.  I always end up sliding things on and off the deck even when the camper is open and access is impeded by the bed wing. This maneuver would be more difficult if the deck wasn't flat.

We have only transported two light lawn chairs on the deck so far, and haven't committed to any modifications, but your mods look nice.

Some really cool ideas in this thread. I hope to put something smart together on my rear deck this month. Generator mount is my first thought?

I'm guessing that I already know the answer, but is this rear rack something that can be added?  Mine doesn't have it.

I've completed my rear deck mod with the 48" O-Track purchased from Northern Tools and I must admit it looks great!  I tapped the track mounting holes above the tail lights but added a nut to the bolts I could access by removing the lights (extra piece of mind).  I removed the angled trim piece next to the box and mounted the second track perpendicular to the deck.  I installed threaded rivets to secure the track to the box with three bolts passing thru the frame and held in place with fender washers and lock nuts (more piece of mind).  My next mode will be installing a eye bolt for locking my generator to the deck.  It will not stop a professional thief but it should keep the honest folks honest.  Thanks everyone for the post on this mod!  It does look factory...


[img style="max-width:100%;" style="" src="https://fbcdn-photos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpt1/v/t1.0-0/11224207_1018663201500003_6300723824461003669_n.jpg?oh=1e702a62bd2f3be132f34ddd18300227&oe=564DB50A&__gda__=1448190602_7b87d563b056a97271445c5397e4b86f"]



(https://fbcdn-photos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xft1/v/t1.0-0/11745861_1018663334833323_5994726128804640397_n.jpg?oh=7e8dff00aaa71eaa9469ce4ed00f34e0&oe=56100634&__gda__=1444324949_c9f8dd80e387d557f2194945ae820207)
[img style="max-width:100%;" style="" src="https://fbcdn-photos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xft1/v/t1.0-0/11750615_1018663238166666_8504534599194514408_n.jpg?oh=432f55e61d18ed8503118ab6f2bae40a&oe=5657F466&__gda__=1444376583_1c97527b3a09dd5ccd7a1afe14bba8e0"]


 

what kind of tool removes those star like bolts on the rear deck?

Quote from: @kelkat" source="/post/19548/thread" timestamp="1457998102what kind of tool removes those star like bolts on the rear deck?

This is a question that has been researched before and confirmed by Livin' Lite.  The factory uses a #2 square drive.  The eight point screw head just makes it faster to align the square bit in the screw head.

Quote from: @nmken" source="/post/2679/thread" timestamp="1408221446Thinking about doing the L track like subaruwx but I have a question - as I read your description you aren't able to get to the backside to use bolts so are using very short screws -is this right?

When I installed the L-Track on my 6.0, I was able to use a mixture of bolts and screws.  Several of the bolt locations along the bumper could be reached with a washer, lock-washer and nut by removing the caps on the ends of the bumper and some of the lights.  I'm not suggesting it was easy, but for several locations it was possible.  Wherever I couldn't get a nut and bolt, I used screws.  My biggest concern was with attaching the front piece to the deck flooring.  I put that piece on the deck floor against the back wall.

I've had the L-Track on my 6.0 for at least five years and I've had no problems with the fasteners.  For several years I used a Rubbermaid Roughneck plastic box, but I've replaced it with a rectangular aluminum tool box from Tractor Supply.  I use ratcheting straps in addition to bolts through the bottom to secure the box.  The straps stay very tight at all times and the track has not lifted at all.  I've seen no evidence of materials being stressed.

[p]I took a different approach with a permanent attachment.  I have a Rubbermaid style bin attached with bolts through the rear deck, then I use those same bolts to attach a vinyl fence post under the deck for pole and umbrella storage.  The bin has 4000 miles on it and the post has 2000 miles.[/p][p]
[/p][p]Here are some photos[/p][p]
[/p][p] [attachment id="1456" thumbnail="1"][/p]

Quote from: @noel" source="/post/21931/thread" timestamp="1465101782[p]I took a different approach with a permanent attachment.  I have a Rubbermaid style bin attached with bolts through the rear deck, then I use those same bolts to attach a vinyl fence post under the deck for pole and umbrella storage.  The bin has 4000 miles on it and the post has 2000 miles.[/p][p]
[/p][p]Here are some photos[/p][p]
[/p][p] [attachment id="1456" thumbnail="1"][/p]

Great idea! Wish we had the deck on ours.

I'm having trouble searching through forum posts, so please forgive if I'm posting this incorrectly!

I'm looking for advice on how to attach tie-downs to our new XLP's rear deck. I bought some steel tie-downs, and the guy at Lowes said I could use steel, self-tapping screws to go into the aluminum...but I'm dubious. Isn't the aluminum planking too thin? And the reinforced edges of the deck are too thick for a bolt, I think. But the edges do seem the best places to attach the tie-downs - but is a self-tapping screw enough for this?

Sorry if this has been covered before, but I'd love any hints and tips for working with aluminum!

Regards,
Sarabeth

[quote timestamp="1465426818" author="@sarabethm" source="/post/22006/thread"]I'm having trouble searching through forum posts, so please forgive if I'm posting this incorrectly!

I'm looking for advice on how to attach tie-downs to our new XLP's rear deck. I bought some steel tie-downs, and the guy at Lowes said I could use steel, self-tapping screws to go into the aluminum...but I'm dubious. Isn't the aluminum planking too thin? And the reinforced edges of the deck are too thick for a bolt, I think. But the edges do seem the best places to attach the tie-downs - but is a self-tapping screw enough for this?

Sorry if this has been covered before, but I'd love any hints and tips for working with aluminum!

Regards,
Sarabeth[/quote][font size="3"]For exposed hardware always use stainless steel. For your application use #14 sheet metal screws or 1/4" bolts with flat washers and lock nuts. If in the thin part of the decking use the machine bolts, washers and nuts. If in the thicker part the sheet metal screws will work, but they must be predrilled with the proper sized drill. SS screws are brittle and will twist off if not done properly. I would suggest #14 hex head sheet metal screws, not self tapping screws. Self tapping screws drill their own hole, but SS is too brittle for that. [/font]

Long shot here as I am deciding on getting an 8.X with or without a deck.

Others here have noted a possible capacity of 200-300 lbs. Does anybody know what is really is? The reason I ask is, I want to put my dirt bike (motorcycle) back there.

I am of course concerned of weight and balance.  

I will be using a ramp and track which should reinforce the deck structure.

1-can it take the weight in the structure?

2-is the axel shifted further aft to compensate for the aft weight and keep the tongue weight within limits,or is the axel the same as the trailer without the rear deck?

Thanks,
Kurt
Reno, NV

Quote from: @sarabethm" source="/post/22006/thread" timestamp="1465426818I'm having trouble searching through forum posts, so please forgive if I'm posting this incorrectly!

I'm looking for advice on how to attach tie-downs to our new XLP's rear deck. I bought some steel tie-downs, and the guy at Lowes said I could use steel, self-tapping screws to go into the aluminum...but I'm dubious. Isn't the aluminum planking too thin? And the reinforced edges of the deck are too thick for a bolt, I think. But the edges do seem the best places to attach the tie-downs - but is a self-tapping screw enough for this?

Sorry if this has been covered before, but I'd love any hints and tips for working with aluminum!

Regards,
Sarabeth

Personally, as an Aircraft Mechanic,  I would not put plain steel fasteners into aluminum.  This is a recipe for corrosion. I would get what aircraft use or Airstream Trailers use.

[quote timestamp="1465703529" source="/post/22096/thread" author="@swashplate"][quote timestamp="1465426818" source="/post/22006/thread" author="@sarabethm"]I'm having trouble searching through forum posts, so please forgive if I'm posting this incorrectly!

I'm looking for advice on how to attach tie-downs to our new XLP's rear deck. I bought some steel tie-downs, and the guy at Lowes said I could use steel, self-tapping screws to go into the aluminum...but I'm dubious. Isn't the aluminum planking too thin? And the reinforced edges of the deck are too thick for a bolt, I think. But the edges do seem the best places to attach the tie-downs - but is a self-tapping screw enough for this?

Sorry if this has been covered before, but I'd love any hints and tips for working with aluminum!

Regards,
Sarabeth[/quote]
Personally, as an Aircraft Mechanic,  I would not put plain steel fasteners into aluminum.  This is a recipe for corrosion. I would get what aircraft use or Airstream Trailers use. [/quote]The Airstream folks tend to use Olympic rivets or stainless steel fastenings. I don't think anyone here has ever suggested plain steel fastenings are okay. As you note -- that's a recipe for corrosion. Anytime I've attached anything to my Camplite I've had very good luck with using robertson head (square socket) stainless steel self-taping screws. I typically use them without a pilot hole and have never had one break. I've had good luck using a corded drywall screwgun. The screwgun clutch seems to give out before the screw breaks. Sometimes I'll finish installing the self-tapping screw with a screwdriver.

Quote from: @swashplate" timestamp="1465702684" source="/post/22095/threadLong shot here as I am deciding on getting an 8.X with or without a deck.

Others here have noted a possible capacity of 200-300 lbs. Does anybody know what is really is? The reason I ask is, I want to put my dirt bike (motorcycle) back there.

I am of course concerned of weight and balance.  

I will be using a ramp and track which should reinforce the deck structure.

1-can it take the weight in the structure?

2-is the axel shifted further aft to compensate for the aft weight and keep the tongue weight within limits,or is the axel the same as the trailer without the rear deck?

Thanks,
Kurt
Reno, NV

[font size="3"]Without exact trailer drawings and your bike weight I can't provide a detailed analysis, but my engineering guess would be a no go. The rear deck is an extension of the frame, which is 2x3" aluminum tubing. The bike (2-400#) would be problematic given the lever arm and the dynamic loading (whipping) of the road environment. The axles are not moved significantly rearward to accommodate that kind of load. The assumed use of the rear shelf is small containers and bikes at worst. You would be extremely tongue light.

LL did make a popup with a platform ahead of the tent. It was designed explicitly to do your job, but it's not being made anymore. Careful search of the used market may turn one up.

EDIT:

[a href="http://www.rvtrader.com/dealers/Bozeman-Ford-%26-RV-2817972/listing/2014-Livin-Lite-Livin-Lite-114414165"]http://www.rvtrader.com/dealers/Bozeman-Ford-%26-RV-2817972/listing/2014-Livin-Lite-Livin-Lite-114414165[/a]
[/font]

Quote from: @charliem" source="/post/22098/thread" timestamp="1465734021[quote source="/post/22095/thread" author="@swashplate" timestamp="1465702684"]Long shot here as I am deciding on getting an 8.X with or without a deck.

Others here have noted a possible capacity of 200-300 lbs. Does anybody know what is really is? The reason I ask is, I want to put my dirt bike (motorcycle) back there.

I am of course concerned of weight and balance.  

I will be using a ramp and track which should reinforce the deck structure.

1-can it take the weight in the structure?

2-is the axel shifted further aft to compensate for the aft weight and keep the tongue weight within limits,or is the axel the same as the trailer without the rear deck?

Thanks,
Kurt
Reno, NV

[font size="3"]Without exact trailer drawings and your bike weight I can't provide a detailed analysis, but my engineering guess would be a no go. The rear deck is an extension of the frame, which is 2x3" aluminum tubing. The bike (2-400#) would be problematic given the lever arm and the dynamic loading (whipping) of the road environment. The axles are not moved significantly rearward to accommodate that kind of load. The assumed use of the rear shelf is small containers and bikes at worst. You would be extremely tongue light.

LL did make a popup with a platform ahead of the tent. It was designed explicitly to do your job, but it's not being made anymore. Careful search of the used market may turn one up.

EDIT:

[a href="http://www.rvtrader.com/dealers/Bozeman-Ford-%26-RV-2817972/listing/2014-Livin-Lite-Livin-Lite-114414165"]http://www.rvtrader.com/dealers/Bozeman-Ford-%26-RV-2817972/listing/2014-Livin-Lite-Livin-Lite-114414165[/a]
[/font][/quote]


Thank you for the help. I did have an 18SUT a few years ago when I had both motorcycle and quads for me and the kids. Now that the kids are gone and it's just a Yamaha WR250R for me exploring and the wife and kid just coming hanging at the campsite.

Now to see more about that link you sent me.

If you or anyone has more neat ideas, please let me know.  Btw, I'm trying to stay away from a gas guzzling small truck and use a Subaru Crosstrek/XV

Kurt
Reno NV

After a couple of mildly unsuccessful attempts, my rear rack on our 8.0 is finally perfect....for now.  When we bought our 8.0, it was perfect (propane, battery, silver anniversary, offroad, etc.) except for the absence of the rear deck.  The finished product is at least as strong as the factory and fits our Action Packer bins perfectly....



(//"%20style="max-width:100%;) 

[quote source="/post/22814/thread" timestamp="1467837451" author="@mtnbikr"]After a couple of mildly unsuccessful attempts, my rear rack on our 8.0 is finally perfect....for now.  When we bought our 8.0, it was perfect (propane, battery, silver anniversary, offroad, etc.) except for the absence of the rear deck.  The finished product is at least as strong as the factory and fits our Action Packer bins perfectly....



[img style="max-width:100%;" style="" src=""] [/quote]Looks great! -- except your licence plate looks really messy.  ;)

Damn kids and their Sharpies....

Wow, this is great.  What a lot of excellent information here. we considering buying the 8.0, and bike transport was one of our questions. It seems as though you have to be really "handy" to be a QS owner!

I'm a complete noob when it comes to mods to the rear deck, but I would like to ask... what would be the best way to secure either:
4 X 20L = Gasoline Container or Jerry Can?

Or

1 X 80L = Storage Tank for extra fuel.

The best way depends on the actual container. For a jerry can I'd just secure them with a ratchet strap through the handles.

[quote source="/post/25631/thread" timestamp="1477635808" author="@promagstyle"]I'm a complete noob when it comes to mods to the rear deck, but I would like to ask... what would be the best way to secure either:
4 X 20L = Gasoline Container or Jerry Can?

Or

1 X 80L = Storage Tank for extra fuel.[/quote][font size="3"]I would advise caution here. 80L of gasoline weighs ~130 pounds plus container and that is a lot of weight to hang on the back of a short wheelbase trailer. That much weight will greatly decrease the tongue weight while adding to the total weight. Tongue weight must be 10-15% of total weight to maintain stability and control of the trailer. If not you get into a tail-wagging-the-dog situation leading to sway and a very dangerous situation.[/font]

[quote timestamp="1477657927" author="@charliem" source="/post/25633/thread"]

Quote from: @promagstyle" timestamp="1477635808" source="/post/25631/threadI'm a complete noob when it comes to mods to the rear deck, but I would like to ask... what would be the best way to secure either:
4 X 20L = Gasoline Container or Jerry Can?

Or

1 X 80L = Storage Tank for extra fuel.

[font size="3"]I would advise caution here. 80L of gasoline weighs ~130 pounds plus container and that is a lot of weight to hang on the back of a short wheelbase trailer. That much weight will greatly decrease the tongue weight while adding to the total weight. Tongue weight must be 10-15% of total weight to maintain stability and control of the trailer. If not you get into a tail-wagging-the-dog situation leading to sway and a very dangerous situation.[/font]
[/quote][p]My towing vehicle has a fuel capacity of 40L tank, where I am going is a remote area. There is not a single gas station in a 400 km radius.[/p][p]
[/p][p]Would this work for my mod and have it drilled into the back wall of the camper or should I just strap them down.[/p][p]I'm already carrying most of my gear in the storage bins of the camper and not in the trunk of towing vehicle.[/p][p]
[/p][p][a href="https://www.amazon.ca/Smittybilt-2798-Jerry-Gas-Holder/dp/B008CLNYPC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1477671687&sr=8-5&keywords=Gas+Tank"]https://www.amazon.ca/Smittybilt-2798-Jerry-Gas-Holder/dp/B008CLNYPC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1477671687&sr=8-5&keywords=Gas+Tank[/a][/p][p]
[/p][p]I have a need for 40 Liters of Gasoline and also 40 Liters of Kerosene, the weight load has increased significantly and the Transmission in my towing vehicle is still holding out.[/p][p]
[/p][p]Should I just go with storage bin solution using 4L Brackets?
[/p]

The problem is not how to do it, rather should it be done.
Could you mount a couple brackets near the front? This would help offset the weight issue in behind the axle.

[quote source="/post/22822/thread" timestamp="1467842825" author="@mtnbikr"]Damn kids and their Sharpies....[/quote][p]I had Livin Lite mount my license plate on the deck between the left light and the 3 center running lights.[/p][p]Cleaner look on back of trailer plus I am going to build a kitchen on the deck.
[/p]

Quote from: @admin" source="/post/25635/thread" timestamp="1477674586The problem is not how to do it, rather should it be done.
Could you mount a couple brackets near the front? This would help offset the weight issue in behind the axle.

[p]
[/p][p]I'd guess so that I can mount some brackets at the front, but I was thinking about the ratchet strap that you suggested earlier before, but I'm not even so sure where to put them underneath the trailer bed, because of the trailer wiring lights are directly underneath.[/p][p]
[/p][p]
[/p]

Interesting thread.

The 11FK trailer I just bought came with the rear deck and my goal is to figure out a way to make it detachable. I'm thinking I will cut it off at the frame and fab up detachable bumper that will be 4x4 with the supports the same dimensions as the cut frame channel. Then I will use steel of the internal dimensions as the frame channel which would be held on by bolts through the frame and support. I could then add a trailer hitch to the 4x4 bumper easily.

I would do the same for the deck. Then I could easily switch between the two as needed. I need to scope it out a bit more before deciding on a solution.