What is the best way to mount solar on these trailers on our roofs? 3M VHB tape, paste/adhesive, or screw in?
Depending on the size of the system you are wanting to mount will change how to mount it. If you are looking for a smaller system like one or two of the 7 watt panels I'd go with velcro. Mainly because I'd take them down when traveling or storing. Plus with such small panels you may want to be able to move them around during the day to get the best sun, especially if you are in a somewhat shaded area.
Most of the time when I think solar I think about how to get the most from the system. In most situations that means finding the most direct sunlight and you cant do that with a permanent mount to the roof of the trailer. The system will still work, but you wont get everything possible from it. I've been thinking about getting an intro level solar system from Northern Tool or Harbor Freight just to get the concept down. Those 45-50 watt kits are less than $200 on a regular basis and sometimes less than $150 which is worth the money to get started in my opinion. http://www.harborfreight.com/45-watt-solar-panel-kit-68751-8527.html is the one from Harbor Freight. Now granted I know they are far from quality products and the charge controller is hit or miss from what I've read, but it's still a starting point and considering some 7 watt panels can run $80 it might be worth it.
If doing this kind of kit I'd rather have it be mobile. Get it rigged so that its a quick and easy setup and plug in. This way you can move it to the sunny spot(s) no matter where you end up camping.
If however you are looking to get a larger system to permanently mount I'd go with a solid screw in type system. The larger system would be nice if you dont have to mess around with setup each time, but you will need the extra capacity just due to the loss of efficiency. With the permanent mount I would think you would need the strongest mount possible if the panels have to stay attached in highway speed winds. I know there are plenty of strong adhesives on the market but trying to remove the panels later for repair or replacement would be far more difficult. With anything electrical I assume its going to need work so it should always be removable.
-Sean
[font size="3"][font face="arial"]X2 on Sean's response. Well thought out and covers all the options.
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Ditto. We use solar to top off the battery while we're boondocking. Our approach is to use a 30-watt portable "briefcase" panel so that we can move it around during the day. We like to keep the trailer in the shade, so putting panels on the roof wouldn't work too well :)
30-watts has been fine so far, but we'd like to move up to 100-watts in the near future. Here's the panel I've been wanting to get:
http://www.amazon.com/RENOGY-Monocrystalline-Photovoltaic-Battery-Charging/dp/B009Z6CW7O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404142594&sr=8-3&keywords=100+watt+solar
We already have a 10Amp MPPT charger that we use with the 30-watt panel.
I "think" I want to put 200 watts on the roof. Not my first expense though.
Now I'm curious...what do you plan on running that you want a 200 watt system?
What Sean says. Unless you know you'll be parked in the sun then a fixed panel is not terribly helpful. Even a small amount of shade on just a corner of a panel radically reduces the panel efficiency.
Anyone look at these?
http://gpelectric.com/products/solar-flex-kits-modules
[quote source="/post/1752/thread" timestamp="1404142703" author="@tinkeringtechie"]Ditto. We use solar to top off the battery while we're boondocking. Our approach is to use a 30-watt portable "briefcase" panel so that we can move it around during the day. We like to keep the trailer in the shade, so putting panels on the roof wouldn't work too well :)
30-watts has been fine so far, but we'd like to move up to 100-watts in the near future. Here's the panel I've been wanting to get:
http://www.amazon.com/RENOGY-Monocrystalline-Photovoltaic-Battery-Charging/dp/B009Z6CW7O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404142594&sr=8-3&keywords=100+watt+solar
We already have a 10Amp MPPT charger that we use with the 30-watt panel.[/quote]I have a Renogy 70 watt panel that I'm very happy with.
Quote from: @funpilot" source="/post/1762/thread" timestamp="1404216763Anyone look at these?
http://gpelectric.com/products/solar-flex-kits-modules
A 30 degree flex mounted to your roof isn't going to do much good if you are parked in the shade. At best the flex would give you a slight boost when it comes to consistency of the array output. In other words if you are parked in with the array following the E - W orientation of the sun, then you might see the power output stay at a more consistent level longer.
I think the number one question you need to answer is how will you be able to get the longest lasting and most direct sunlight on the panels. If you are near the equator where the sun will be highest in the sky and you are not parking in the shade then a rooftop system might work out well. If you are further away and the sun gets lower in the sky and less intense then you may want to look at a more mobile setup.
Solar is one of those areas that you get sink as much money into it as you want but throwing money at it will only get you so far. You still need the basics covered or else you will just be wasting time and money.
On a related note my DIY side says there may be a happy medium if you are fairly confident in your skills.
If you want to get real slick with your setup you could make a quick connect mount for your roof that would allow you to have the panels semi-permanently mounted for when you don't want to deal with moving them around. Have the panels wired into a plug rather than hard wired. This would allow you to take them down with relative ease. Then you could have a mobile stand (really just a couple of legs to allow them to tilt) which would let you move them to any place that gets the best sun. At that point you are only limited to the extension cord length.
For the record here's my solar setup
This is a Renogy 70 Watt panel, the MC4 leads out of the back are connected to 2 conductors of a 25 foot 4 conductor, 10 gauge highly flexible cord.
[attachment id="200" thumbnail="1"]
This is my homemade controller box with gauges so I can see what's happening. There is an ammeter and 2 volt meters. The lead coming from the panel to the box uses a Mar Lan 10 gauge trolling motor connector, the other side of the connector is installed on the box, this allows me easy connect and disconnect. Inside the box is a Morningstar Sunsaver 10 amp PWM charge controller.
[attachment id="201" thumbnail="1"]
This shows the 10 gauge cables coming out of the controller box and going to the battery with simple battery clips.
[attachment id="202" thumbnail="1"]
All together this setup will provide me with about 20 amp hours of juice in 4 to 5 hours of good sun. All of the parts for this were purchased on Amazon, the total cost was roughly $275.
OK, you all are getting me to rethink whether I should go with solar on the roof.
My order has not been submitted, so should I delete "solar ready" if I decide to just go with a portable one, or would hooking it up to the solar ready wiring make it easier? They will install the "solar ready where ever I point." Right now I have it over the bunk beds in the 28BHS so easy to get to by ladder. I guess I could put it on one of the sides instead...
I live near Virginia Beach and can go to near by beaches off season easily. So, I am off grid but not in the boondocks. This is going to be my "beach house". I plan on also putting in a Honda 3000 generator so I can have A/C like this: [a href="http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/trailer-tray-a-frame-cargo-carrier/70918"]http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/trailer-tray-a-frame-cargo-carrier/70918[/a] or just leave it in the back of my truck.
Does doing that basically mean I do not need the solar?
[quote source="/post/1769/thread" timestamp="1404228449" author="@funpilot"]OK, you all are getting me to rethink whether I should go with solar on the roof.
My order has not been submitted, so should I delete "solar ready" if I decide to just go with a portable one, or would hooking it up to the solar ready wiring make it easier? They will install the "solar ready where ever I point." Right now I have it over the bunk beds in the 28BHS so easy to get to by ladder. I guess I could put it on one of the sides instead...
I live near Virginia Beach and can go to near by beaches off season easily. So, I am off grid but not in the boondocks. This is going to be my "beach house". I plan on also putting in a Honda 3000 generator so I can have A/C like this: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/trailer-tray-a-frame-cargo-carrier/70918
Does doing that basically mean I do not need the solar? [/quote]If you'll be running a generator, the solar panels shouldn't be necessary. Most campground's don't allow generator usage at night, but your solar panels won't help then either ;)
The "solar ready" option would really only be useful for roof mounted solar. If you want to use portable panels it wouldn't help at all (it would actually make it more difficult). When I switch to the 100-watt panel I'll also be purchasing a larger locking tongue box and then put the charger and other misc stuff in the box next to the battery.
You can't run AC on battery power so solar does nothing for your AC. If you're going to run a generator so that you can have AC that generator can also recharge your battery and solar will be redundant. In my mind the benefit of solar is that I don't have to have a generator and mess with the fuel and, a big one for me, solar is noiseless. Bottom line as I see it, if AC is a must then a generator is a must and solar is not needed.
[quote source="/post/1771/thread" timestamp="1404229042" author="@mitch"]You can't run AC on battery power so solar does nothing for your AC. If you're going to run a generator so that you can have AC that generator can also recharge your battery and solar will be redundant. In my mind the benefit of solar is that I don't have to have a generator and mess with the fuel and, a big one for me, solar is noiseless. Bottom line as I see it, if AC is a must then a generator is a must and solar is not needed.[/quote][font face="arial" size="3"]Yep! AC and/or Microwave = Generator = Battery Charging = [strike]Solar[/strike][/font] :'(
Done....generator it is. Thanks again guys.
To run something like AC and or a Microwave off solar you would need such a large array of panels to supply a huge bank of batteries which in turn supplies a massive inverter. This would be impractical, expensive, and over the top for camping. It is possible if you have enough money to overcome common sense ;)
[quote source="/post/1774/thread" timestamp="1404231199" author="@admin"]To run something like AC and or a Microwave off solar you would need such a large array of panels to supply a huge bank of batteries which in turn supplies a massive inverter. This would be impractical, expensive, and over the top for camping. It is possible if you have enough money to overcome common sense ;)[/quote][p]I was planning to get a generator to do that stuff anyway. But the more I think about it, the type of camping that I would want solar for is going to be rare for me. So, the only open question is "Do I get the solar-ready option" so that it makes it easier to sell later on? It is $200.00[/p][p]
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What does the solar ready option consist of?
I dont know if having it as "solar ready" would be a huge selling point. $200 is not a lot of money in the big picture but if all you get for the money is some pre-run wire I'd pass. Perhaps if it included a decent charge controler as well I'd be more interested since they can often be a decent cost if you get a quality unit.
[quote source="/post/1775/thread" timestamp="1404232667" author="@funpilot"][p] It is $200.00[/p][p]
[/p][/quote][font size="3"][font face="arial"]A lot of money for some wire and a connector.[/font][/font]
I have tried to get a detailed description but no luck so far. Will let you know when I get it. If I do not get it, I will pass on the solar-ready.
Ok, it is a wire only. They say they install a waterproof grummet in the roof and they will use any gauge wire I request. I decided to get it and asked for 6 gauge wire.
[quote source="/post/1804/thread" timestamp="1404316795" author="@funpilot"]Ok, it is a wire only. They say they install a waterproof grummet in the roof and they will use any gauge wire I request. I decided to get it and asked for 6 gauge wire.[/quote]
So it starts on the roof and ends up where? If they don't include a charge controller then you'll need to be able to access it both for installation and for monitoring/configuring.
The dealer said it goes down to the battery cables. Will confirm from LL. Thanks for the continuing great questions I forget to ask.
[quote source="/post/1813/thread" timestamp="1404325286" author="@funpilot"]The dealer said it goes down to the battery cables. Will confirm from LL. Thanks for the continuing great questions I forget to ask. [/quote]Just make sure it's not actually connected to the battery cables. If they just run them to the battery box that should be fine, but plan on buying a bigger battery box to fit the controller inside.
Does one get that battery box from LL or is it easy to get as aftermarket? Confirmed that it goes to the batteries but not attached.
[quote source="/post/1818/thread" timestamp="1404326161" author="@funpilot"]Does one get that battery box from LL or is it easy to get as aftermarket? Confirmed that it goes to the batteries but not attached. [/quote]I think that's a dealer-provided accessory, but it is easy to get aftermarket. LL puts a tray on the tongue, so make sure the tray is big enough.
[quote source="/post/1819/thread" timestamp="1404327015" author="@tinkeringtechie"][quote source="/post/1818/thread" timestamp="1404326161" author="@funpilot"]Does one get that battery box from LL or is it easy to get as aftermarket? Confirmed that it goes to the batteries but not attached. [/quote]I think that's a dealer-provided accessory, but it is easy to get aftermarket. LL puts a tray on the tongue, so make sure the tray is big enough.[/quote][font face="arial" size="3"]A note of caution here: The stock battery rack from LL is for a single group 24 battery. I specified a rack to accommodate two [/font][font face="arial" size="3"]6V GC2 batteries and that's what I got. What I forgot was the battery cases, which would not fit. Strange! Beware of what you ask for...you may get it. Fortunately the battery rack is just aluminum angle bolted to the tongue. AL angle is easy to obtain and work with so I'll build a frame to accommodate the two GC2s and cases (maybe four ::)).
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Endless wisdom here. I hope I am on track as I sent them this link for the batteries I will first get:
http://www.usbattery.com/usb_us2200xc_golf.html
Thanks to the new poster who posted pics on his 28BHS and a phone call with him, I was able to confirm that sales was mistaken on an item. The propane quick connect for a BBQ is not standard on the 28BHS so more good feedback. They will add it. Also sent a follow-up email to LL to be sure they understand that by using a 6 volt battery, I need space for 2. Also asked if they can make room for the controller. They must be close to ordering a "hit" out on me.
[quote source="/post/1821/thread" timestamp="1404333564" author="@funpilot"]Endless wisdom here. I hope I am on track as I sent them this link for the batteries I will first get:
http://www.usbattery.com/usb_us2200xc_golf.html
Thanks to the new poster who posted pics on his 28BHS and a phone call with him, I was able to confirm that sales was mistaken on an item. The propane quick connect for a BBQ is not standard on the 28BHS so more good feedback. They will add it. Also sent a follow-up email to LL to be sure they understand that by using a 6 volt battery, I need space for 2. Also asked if they can make room for the controller. They must be close to ordering a "hit" out on me. [/quote][font size="3"][font face="arial"]Looks like a standard GC2 battery. Make sure you and LL allow for the battery boxes. BTW, unlike warranties, "hits" have no expiration dates :).[/font][/font]
I sent LL the advice I received on this thread so they know it is coming from owners. I have done that in the past and they respond very favorably to you all being the source. It may be the only reason the "hit" has not been executed, or perhaps the list is expanding .... LOL
This is what I use to keep my batteries fully charged while the trailer is in storage. I can also use it to charge while we are camping, but so far haven't had enough sun. It cost about $120 to put together.
I have a 30 watt solar panel. These are available from Amazon Prime for about $65. 50 watt panels are about $85. I also bought a Morningstar Sunsaver 6 amp controller for about $50. This isn't the cheapest controller and you can find Chinese controllers for about half, but Morningstar is a name brand. You can find kits with a panel and controller for about $100, but these use Chinese controllers.
I shouldn't be so prejudiced. I bought a 10 amp Chinese controller for about $25 for another application and it looks well made.
I glued the controller to the back of the solar panel with epoxy paste. Then I hooked up the output of the solar panel to the controller input. I made up a 6' (go longer if you want to get away to a sunny spot) cable from the controller with alligator clips on the other end and a 10 amp fuse in the positive lead near the clips. I used 18 gauge tinned boat wire.
At the storage yard I set up the panel at an angle facing south against the tongue and clip the alligator clips to the battery terminals. If I had a long enough cable I could mount the panel where it can get some sun while camping, but like I said, so far (and forever as far as I am concerned) no sunny spot was nearby.
When I am ready to tow, I unclip and stow it in the pass through compartment.
30 watts will put about 10 amphours into your batteries on a sunny day in full sun. That is about what I expect to use in an average day while camping. A 50 watt panel will give you some extra for cloudy days.
David
At this point, I am getting it just to have it. Still not sure whether I will go portable or permanent mount. I just want the choice. I did get feedback on the battery holder and that was they have not seen a controller for solar so do not know how to size their battery holder to accommodate one. I will find a way to mount it later if I go that route. Your home made approach certainly is affordable!!
[quote source="/post/1845/thread" timestamp="1404411207" author="@funpilot"]At this point, I am getting it just to have it. Still not sure whether I will go portable or permanent mount. I just want the choice. I did get feedback on the battery holder and that was they have not seen a controller for solar so do not know how to size their battery holder to accommodate one. I will find a way to mount it later if I go that route. Your home made approach certainly is affordable!![/quote][font size="3"][font face="arial"]I think finding a battery box that would allow mounting the charge controller inside with the batteries might be a challenge. Mounting the controller inside the camper would shelter it from the weather and passers by. The only advantage to co-locating the charger and batteries would be reduced voltage drop to the batteries. An easier approach might be to get the battery rack sized for three GC2 battery boxes end to end; two for the 6V batteries and one for the controller. Should be easy to mount the controller in the bat box and it's right next to the batteries. [/font][font face="arial"]Also less attention grabbing to the curious.
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Many small controllers are waterproof. The Morningstar Sunsavers are. Why not mount one on the outside of the battery box?
David