Is there a conversion kit to change our manual jacks to electric ones or would it be cheaper to replace them? By the way, what brand jack does LL use? Also, can we use the jacks for leveling? Or, is it too easy to level the LL trailers that I am looking at a non issue?
[quote source="/post/1655/thread" timestamp="1403567948" author="@funpilot"]Is there a conversion kit to change our manual jacks to electric ones or would it be cheaper to replace them? By the way, what brand jack does LL use? Also, can we use the jacks for leveling? Or, is it too easy to level the LL trailers that I am looking at a non issue? [/quote][font face="arial" size="3"]I've never seen conversion kits, but they'd be expensive. I and others use a battery powered electric drill or driver with a 3/4 inch socket to run the stabilizer jacks. Works great, quick, and easy. That said, DO NOT attempt to level the camper with the stabilizers. The frame is designed to be supported by the axles and tongue, not the corners. Leveling with the jacks may impart a twist or other distortions. As the factory mounts the body to the frame the frame flexes. All subsequent assembly including fastening and weather sealing occurs in the presence of this flex. If the frame is subsequently flexed differently, as would occur with significant forces from the jacks, joints and seals may be damaged. Therefore true power jacks on the corners is probably a bad idea.
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So how do you level the camper? I am going to guess, get the wheel to wheel as close as you can with blocks, front back with the front stabilizer, and then adjust with the stabilizer jacks?
[quote source="/post/1657/thread" timestamp="1403571780" author="@funpilot"]So how do you level the camper? I am going to guess, get the wheel to wheel as close as you can with blocks, front back with the front stabilizer, and then adjust with the stabilizer jacks?[/quote][font size="3"][font face="arial"]Very close. Level side to side with blocks or wedges under the wheels and put chocks under the wheels. Then uncouple from the TV and level front to back with the tongue jack. Older fridges could handle +/- 6 degrees side to side and +/- 3 degrees front to back (referenced to the trailer) and the new ones are better. [/font][/font][font size="3"][font face="arial"]The books say if you're comfortable in the trailer your fridge is too. Using a bubble level or your iPhone[/font][/font][font size="3"][font face="arial"] it's easy to get the trailer within a degree in both directions. Then lower the stabilizers just to the point of ground contact plus about a single turn. It's best to put at least one block under each stabilizer to accommodate ground compression from leaves, mud, sand, etc. [/font][font face="arial"]With a little practice it becomes easy and quick. You'll get the hang of estimating how many blocks are needed by looking at the levels. Again, do not attempt to correct even one degree with the stabilizers.
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Charlie's explanation is exactly right. I would just add two things:
[ul type="disc"][li]If you're going to be off level make sure it's in such a way that your head will be up while sleeping. If your head is downhill from your feet while sleeping you'll wake up with a heck of a headache.[/li][li]Think of the stabilizers like anti-bounce supports. They're only there to stop movement, not support any weight. Theoretically they only need to just touch the ground to prevent the trailer from moving, but as Charlie mentioned, the ground will compress and allow them to move unless you put a tiny bit of tension on them.[/li][/ul]
Thanks very much. My last RV had auto capability so all I did was push a button so learned nothing.
[quote source="/post/1660/thread" timestamp="1403627198" author="@funpilot"]Thanks very much. My last RV had auto capability so all I did was push a button so learned nothing. [/quote]If it was an RV (instead of a trailer) they normally have large hydraulic jacks that can lift the entire vehicle without damaging anything. They're also usually located by the wheels where the frame is designed to bear weight.
If you look closely at the camplite scissor jacks you'll see they aren't even attached to the main frame, but instead to smaller joists. The advantage of this is that they can be retracted above the frame for good ground clearance, but they wouldn't be able to support very much weight.
Tinker, thought I read on another post that you use the Anderson leveling ramps. Are these the ones? http://www.amazon.com/Andersen-3604-Andersen-3604-Camper-Leveler/dp/B001GC2LVM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
[quote source="/post/1663/thread" timestamp="1403632962" author="@funpilot"]Tinker, thought I read on another post that you use the Anderson leveling ramps. Are these the ones? http://www.amazon.com/Andersen-3604-Andersen-3604-Camper-Leveler/dp/B001GC2LVM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top[/quote]That's it. I've been really happy with them so far. The only downside was that I had to trim them to fit between the wheels. Here's what they look like in use:
[attachment id="182" thumbnail="1"]
They're more expensive than blocks (at least the cheaper ones), but they take up a lot less space, they appear extremely durable, they double as chocks, and they allow continuous adjustment.
[quote source="/post/1666/thread" timestamp="1403637856" author="@tinkeringtechie"][quote source="/post/1663/thread" timestamp="1403632962" author="@funpilot"]Tinker, thought I read on another post that you use the Anderson leveling ramps. Are these the ones? http://www.amazon.com/Andersen-3604-Andersen-3604-Camper-Leveler/dp/B001GC2LVM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top[/quote]That's it. I've been really happy with them so far. The only downside was that I had to trim them to fit between the wheels. Here's what they look like in use:
They're more expensive than blocks (at least the cheaper ones), but they take up a lot less space, they appear extremely durable, they double as chocks, and they allow continuous adjustment.[/quote]Are they the tires that came with your camper? I guess you had the off road option. What size are your tires?
Thanks,
Doug
[quote source="/post/1670/thread" timestamp="1403652505" author="@djsamuel"]Are they the tires that came with your camper? I guess you had the off road option. What size are your tires?
Thanks,
Doug
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Yeah, those came with the off-road package. The size is LT195/75R14 load range D.
[quote source="/post/1671/thread" timestamp="1403652730" author="@tinkeringtechie"][quote source="/post/1670/thread" timestamp="1403652505" author="@djsamuel"]
[/quote]Yeah, those came with the off-road package. The size is LT195/75R14 load range D.[/quote]What is the PSI rating? I'm wondering if when the time comes, I can replace the ST tires that came with my camper with these, and not change the rims.
[quote source="/post/1672/thread" timestamp="1403652852" author="@djsamuel"]What is the PSI rating? I'm wondering if when the time comes, I can replace the ST tires that came with my camper with these, and not change the rims.[/quote]
Max is 65psi, but I think they're currently set at 50psi. I think you could swap for these pretty easily. Yokohama makes an LT tire in the same size and load rating for a bit less:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Y356&partnum=975R4356&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
[font size="3"][font face="arial"]I also got the Goodrich All Terrain T/As with the off road package. I just replaced one ( caused by me) and had to order from Sam's Club. This sized tire is hard to find and expensive. $135 plus tax and mounting, but no shipping charge from Sam's. I run the max sidewall pressure of 65#.
I like the LTs for the tread and the looks, but the LT vs ST controversy rages on other forums. I also like the load range D rating, which is rare in a 14" tire. The Yokos are probably worth a look too.
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This is all great info. Thanks. :)
Guys,
I'm probably ordering a pair of the Anderson Levelers later today.
Tinkering,
In your photo you show them in place PLUS a between-wheel chock. Is that not a bit redundant? Anderson advertises their levelers double as chocks.
[quote source="/post/1666/thread" timestamp="1403637856" author="@tinkeringtechie"][quote source="/post/1663/thread" timestamp="1403632962" author="@funpilot"]Tinker, thought I read on another post that you use the Anderson leveling ramps. Are these the ones? http://www.amazon.com/Andersen-3604-Andersen-3604-Camper-Leveler/dp/B001GC2LVM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top[/quote]That's it. I've been really happy with them so far. The only downside was that I had to trim them to fit between the wheels. Here's what they look like in use:
They're more expensive than blocks (at least the cheaper ones), but they take up a lot less space, they appear extremely durable, they double as chocks, and they allow continuous adjustment.[/quote]What are those yellow items in your pic? Are they for security? ( I see fasteddie is asking the same thing....lol)
Ok, just ordered mine from Amazon. What did you do to trim them BTW?
My guess is that if one does not quite fit between the wheels, it needs it's "pointy end" either sawed off or ground down just a bit until it does.
Easy....thanks.
[quote source="/post/2247/thread" timestamp="1406979706" author="@fasteddieb"]In your photo you show them in place PLUS a between-wheel chock. Is that not a bit redundant? Anderson advertises their levelers double as chocks.[/quote]
[quote source="/post/2248/thread" timestamp="1406980034" author="@funpilot"]What are those yellow items in your pic? Are they for security? ( I see fasteddie is asking the same thing....lol)[/quote]
Those are the camco "wheel stop". It might seem redundant, but they're actually another awesome product. Let me explain:
Stabilizing jacks keep your trailer from moving up and down at a point. They do very little for lateral motion (twisting). If you want to see what I mean, give you bumper a kick from the side and see how "stable" it is. The stabilizers are just too flexible in that direction, especially when they're extended fully. If you use four chocks (most people just use two) then it would help to reduce twisting a little bit, but tires are flexible and bouncy and chocks are just ramps, so they also move quite a bit. Have someone else do the side kick and watch the space between your tires... the two tire faces will oscillate in opposite directions. The wheel stop works like a parking brake on all four wheels and doesn't allow them to move at all. It ends up improving stability significantly.
The second reason truly is for redundancy... the Anderson design is really smart, but the materials feel slightly slippery. I wouldn't trust them by themselves. My fear is that on a smooth surface, the chock portion might "shoot" out. I think eventually the trailer would be stopped by the chock itself, but I wouldn't want that to happen while I was in there and it might damage my stabilizers.
[quote source="/post/2249/thread" timestamp="1406980904" author="@funpilot"]Ok, just ordered mine from Amazon. What did you do to trim them BTW?[/quote]I cut off the tips with my bandsaw. It ended up being a little more than an inch, and I cut it at an angle so the tire could still roll onto it easily.
I see that I can get those Camco wheel stops at Walmart. Now, what is that green thing with the cord for?
[quote source="/post/2257/thread" timestamp="1406985784" author="@funpilot"]I see that I can get those Camco wheel stops at Walmart. Now, what is that green thing with the cord for? [/quote]To keep my dog at the campsite :)
If you go to Livin Lite's Website, there is a downloadable owner's manual about 50 pages long that explains leveling and a whole lot more. And yes, I always read the manuals, completely. My husband is an electrical engineer who sometimes writes manuals. Does he read owner's manuals? Nooooo. He hates them. He waits until I read them, and explain to him in English how to do stuff.
I just read my last post to my husband. He asked if my name was on here. I told him they have my name but not his. He said yeah. So I will give you his name - Alan. Now if I can just figure out how to put a smiley face here...
[quote source="/post/2256/thread" timestamp="1406985568" author="@tinkeringtechie"][quote source="/post/2249/thread" timestamp="1406980904" author="@funpilot"]Ok, just ordered mine from Amazon. What did you do to trim them BTW?[/quote]I cut off the tips with my bandsaw. It ended up being a little more than an inch, and I cut it at an angle so the tire could still roll onto it easily.[/quote]Now you've got me thinking I need a bandsaw...
[quote source="/post/2271/thread" timestamp="1407019069" author="@pinstriper"]Now you've got me thinking I need a bandsaw...
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Honestly, it's one of my most used power tools besides my drill. Pretty much any rough cutting is done with it because it's so much more safe and controlled compared to a circular saw, jigsaw, table saw, etc... The only downside is the ~13 clearance to the left of the blade. I've got a Grizzly G0555P and would recommend it.