Filled up the fresh water tank today for the first time this year. Switched on the water pump to get the system up to pressure. Then noticed that my water was running back through the city water side and pouring out the 'inlet' connection on the outside, other side of the trailer (i.e., the full hook up side).
I've been looking for any sort of on/off valve or check valve but I'm clueless.
I'm sure (I hope), this is a simple problem but I'm looking for suggestions.
I got a call into CampLite and D&H where I bought it last year.
Thx..
[font size="3"]There is a check valve built in to the city water connection that should prevent this. I'm guessing some dirt/sand/stuff is stuck in the valve preventing it from closing. Try connecting to city water and running some through the system to flush it. Alternately you could remove the screen washer in the hose fitting and actuate the valve by hand.
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Bingo. You're the winner. Also Don just got back to me with the same info.
I can see the spring inside the valve but there is no ball or check device to work with the spring. I assume it's gone. Don is sending me a new inlet valve.
Leaned something new about my RV today..
Thanks Charlie!
[font size="3"]You're quite welcome. A free service of the management and this forum. I'd be interested in what it takes to install the new one, just in case I have to someday.
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I'll let you know, but for now I've threaded a plug in the city connection so I could finish cleaning the fresh tank and lines. Works great as a backup!
[div][font size="3" face="comic sans ms"]I wasn't so lucky. As part of my winterizing last year I missed the part about de-pressurizing the system before pushing on the check valve to let a little bit of anti-freeze flow out. Instead I gave it a pretty hard knock and ended up with a gallon of anti-freeze all over me. I installed a cap for the winter but now I have to replace the fresh water inlet assembly. Has anyone done this cause it is not coming apart as I had hoped. 6 screws hold the housing to the unit but I have this bad feeling that there is a ton of silicone sealant in behind that is making removal difficult.
Mike
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[quote timestamp="1464493664" source="/post/21659/thread" author="@mrt"][div][font size="3" face="comic sans ms"]I wasn't so lucky. As part of my winterizing last year I missed the part about de-pressurizing the system before pushing on the check valve to let a little bit of anti-freeze flow out. Instead I gave it a pretty hard knock and ended up with a gallon of anti-freeze all over me. I installed a cap for the winter but now I have to replace the fresh water inlet assembly. Has anyone done this cause it is not coming apart as I had hoped. 6 screws hold the housing to the unit but I have this bad feeling that there is a ton of silicone sealant in behind that is making removal difficult.
Mike
[/font][/div][/quote]Can you get at the back of it to see what's going on? On my 16, the assembly is accessible inside the water heater compartment.
[font face="comic sans ms" size="3"]It's a bit tight but yes, I can see the connections. I'll try disconnecting them to see if this allows the unit to be removed easier. I'm sure its stuck with caulking, I just don't want to damage the outside. Thanks[/font]
[div][font face="comic sans ms" size="3"]Well, I was able to remove the entire housing. In addition to the 6 screws there was a very sticky gasket. Now, removing the actual brass connection from the housing is proving to be difficult. Can you let me know what Don actually sends you? I would be interested in knowing if its the entire housing with the water connection installed or just the brass fitting that you will have to install. If its just the brass fitting then we can figure it out together. It looks simple enough but its attached to soft plastic that is easily deformed by wrenches and twisting.
Cheers
Mike
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Will definitely let you know..
It looks like this:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160615/f5a899f5efe1a7be96400837bbad4a82.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160615/e7d35ea90b5b5528a600a168abf8aaeb.jpg)
Replaced and tested, all is good!
New Question regarding water tank:
My problem seems to be the opposite of the above question regarding water tank overflow.
1. When I hook up to city water (connection near the electrical hookup) sometimes it fills my fresh water tank and water overflows out of the fresh water tank connection near the trailer entry door.
2. It does not do this each time I hook up but on todays trip it is, water is overflowing.
3. I turned the city water off at the camp site hook up to stop the overflow but my fresh tank is bulging full.
4.Is this some kind of check valve problem?
Thanks
MonteD
MonteD:
Yes, it is a check valve problem, but in your case it is a check valve inside the raw water pump. It may be that some trash that has gotten stuck inside the pump and sometimes holds the valve open and sometimes not. First try running the pump to blow out the trash.
If that doesn't fix it, I would either replace the pump or disassemble it and see what might be causing the problem inside.
David
Thank you David I will try that.
I did call Sunny Island RV where I purchased the unit and talked to Steve who has been there a long time, a seasoned RV veteran! He suggested the same as you that it is a pump problem (in warranty) but after our discussion he suggested it may be very strong pressure from the camp ground water system. I have had this happen one other time only to disappear and not occur on the following camping trip. He suggested after our discussion that it is not a pump issue but I need a stronger pressure regulator. I have the standard unit Walmart sells.
Any my plan is to shut off water supply from well, use water from the tank, then drain remaining water from tank prior to departure from Asheville area on Wednesday. I will then check the issue at the next camp site to see if it happens again. I will also not open the campsite water connection to wide open but maybe 1/4 open or something like that to see if this resolves the problem.
Yes we are looking forward to sleeping in the rain hopefully tonight and tomorrow night as we are in a major drought here in the southeast!
I am rather surprised that it may be a high water pressure problem as that should only make the check valves in the pump shut off tighter. I am equally surprised that a WalMart pressure regulator won't do the job. And don't expect that just cracking the campsite water supply to 1/4 will help. When no water is flowing inside your camper, the pressure will build to exactly the same value, 1/4 cracked or full open.
So, check the pump.
David
[font size="3"]The most effective procedure so far is to disconnect the city water supply and force the pump to cycle several times. This will attempt to clear the check valve if it has junk in it. If that doesn't work you have to fix the valve itself. It is integral to the pump, but I don't know if it's accessible and/or repairable or replaceable. The supply valve at 1/4 will have no effect.
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We did disconnect the city water line and just used the 30 gallons or so in the fresh water tank. This procedure worked fine other than the rapid pumping/thumping noise the pump makes when one flushes or used the sink faucet. It is much more obvious than when using the city water line. Again SIRV service did not think it was the pump when I first described the problem to them but he did indicate the pump was still in warranty; problem is they are 900 miles away! If the problem arises on the next trip a new pump may be in order but I think it may be junk in the line or something as this has happened on another past trip several months ago, it is not consistent.
Thanks for your comments and I am sure I will get it resolved with your info!