I'm a newbie on this site and already I've learned quite a lot from just reading different posts and threads. I have a 13' CampLite for about 7 years now. I've put many miles on the trailer in various conditions and never had any issue with swaying until my recent camping trip convinced me otherwise. We encountered very high winds on a two-lane highway with semi-trucks traveling in the opposite direction blasting us with hurricane force turbulence. Anyway, the trailer never really was out of control, but it did sway quite a bit to give a minor heart attack each time a semi-truck went by. I've recently decided to purchased Eaz-lift sway control bar from Amazon. The installation is fairly straight forward except that the way LivinLite design the frame, it doesn't work well with WDH and sway control system that are out there on the market. They work well where the frame flares out or triangulated after the hitch ball, but LL has a straight tubing that runs for about 22" before it comes to the triangulation. I'm just wondering if anyone out there had the same problem with swaying and had installed a sway control bar. Thank you for any inputs.
Welcome to the forum! I don't think I've ever seen a Camplite with a 2 foot long bar before the triangle starts. Mine and others I've looked at all have the triangle immediately after the hitch ball, so sway control and weight distribution hitches work fine. I wonder if you need to visit a hitch shop for pro advice?
[font size="3"]The older small CLs had a short A-Frame with a short straight extension to the coupler. Today's 11FK still does. The friction type sway bars might work.
[/font]
To Merlin: I bought this trailer when LivinLite just came out with the Camplite T.T. lines. I believe all of their frames, even on the 16'camplite (their longest at the time) were design with this long straight extension or neck and then welded to an A-frame.
The Eaz-lift sway control bar is the friction type sway control. The bar slips on to mounting balls at each end. It's has to be mounted 24" from the center of the hitch ball to another mounting plate with a ball that goes on the side of the trailer frame. That 24" mounting distance puts that mounting plate at the junction where the straight bar is welded to the A-frame where there's also a gusset plate to reinforce this connection. There's no flat surface where this plate can be mounted.If you were to go to this Amazon link you will see what I mean. Link: http://www.amazon.com/Eaz-Lift-48380-Right-Passenger-Control/dp/B007HRIVMI/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1463537898&sr=1-1&keywords=eaz+lift+sway+control
I was hoping for an easy DIY solution, but I think now that I might have to hire a welder to weld a big flat plate that span the side of the straight neck and the side of the A-frame section. Thank you for all the comments thus far.
Not sure how this may or may not apply, but Andy at CanAm RV in London , Ontario helped me spec a w/d hitch and sway control for our Flex/21BHS combo:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7356/13747178785_b19767e864.jpg)
A big plus was no drilling of the frame required. I'm sure the frame can handle a few holes here and there, but any hole has to compromise strength by at least some tiny amount, so I'd just as soon not if possible.
I did swap the propane tank and battery around, so my chains could run more vertically.
In any case, a photo of your setup might help with the suggestions.
I really like your set up, but unfortunately for me this is how the frame on my CL was built. And it's a pain in the you know what when it comes to adding aftermarket stuff to it. I hope the picture give you a better idea of the problem I'm having. If I were to install the sway control bar as recommended by the manufacturer, the point where I need to attach the bracket will be at the gusset plate just right below the propane tank. And the mounting plate is about 7" long. Thank you for posting your picture.
[attachment id="1400" thumbnail="1"]
Looks solvable.
Here's my setup as delivered:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7797/26505700223_96ca6ef981.jpg)I'll bet you can come up with a way to mount the sway control ball somewhere with a bit of creativity!
Quote from: @bubbagump" source="/post/21291/thread" timestamp="1463628625I really like your set up, but unfortunately for me this is how the frame on my CL was built. And it's a pain in the you know what when it comes to adding aftermarket stuff to it. I hope the picture give you a better idea of the problem I'm having. If I were to install the sway control bar as recommended by the manufacturer, the point where I need to attach the bracket will be at the gusset plate just right below the propane tank. And the mounting plate is about 7" long. Thank you for posting your picture.
[font size="3"]Even attaching the sway bar at the propane tank will not work. You need left or right separation to achieve the required moment arm It needs to be attached about where your jack is or further back. It's the sideways distance, not the front/rear distance, you need. You really need a much longer sway bar, but those are probably not available.
You might look at the Andersen hitch:
[a href=""]www.andersenhitches.com/Products/3324--nosway-weight-distribution-hitch-4-droprise-2-ball-3-4-5--6-brackets.aspx[/a]
It uses a different principle and mounting. The chains can be lengthened to reach further back on your A-frame. It also provides some weight distribution as a side benefit, but you probably don't need WD. Talk with the folks at the Andersen factory.
[/font]
The Andersen might work with a custom mounting of the brackets to the frame. The brackets need to pointing at least in the general direction of the hitch plate in order for the chains to slip a bit in the brackets to provide some shock buffering. On a trailer with a long tongue, the brackets would not be aimed correctly without modification. I agree with Charlie a call to Andersen might be in order. I like my 3324 for the sway control.
I just took a quick glance at the installation manual and it seemed that this particular system might be the ticket. Thank you Charliem and Merlin.
I vaguely remember in the Anderson manual that this particular installation was illustrated. I want to say they put the brackets right on the straight section. Check before you buy anything, but I believe the Anderson hitch is compatible with this style of tongue.
I think that a conventional friction sway control might also work on the straight section because the "triangle" needed for the device is not created by the A-frame. It's created by the offset between the two hitch balls (the main one and the smaller one for the sway control). The friction is provided by the device is from the "little ball" moving forward and back as the TV/trailer pivots. You'd still need enough space that it wouldn't pinch on a tight turn though. I'd call up the manufacturer to see what they recommend though.
[font size="3"]Agreed, the Andersen installation manual does address what they call the "Y style" tongue. Should work. So far owners report excellent sway and bounce control with the Anderson, not so good on weight distribution but that shouldn't be an issue with a small trailer.
[/font]
I've been very happy with the Andersen hitch over the last 2+ years and 8,000 miles or so.
Now that I have some time to ponder a bit. I think the Anderson system will work well, but it is rather pricey for how simple it is compare to other systems. I'm still not too sure I want to spend $500 for it. Since I have a fairly small trailer, this system seems a bit overkill. All I really need is something to create a bit of resistance when a big semi blows by me. I think I'm still going to give the friction bar a go. May be just mount it on the straight run as tinkeringtechie suggested. It won't be exactly how the manufacturer wants you to mount it, but it should still work. If it doesn't work then I'll go with the more expensive plan B.
[quote timestamp="1463683234" author="@bubbagump" source="/post/21313/thread"]Now that I have some time to ponder a bit. I think the Anderson system will work well, but it is rather pricey for how simple it is compare to other systems. I'm still not too sure I want to spend $500 for it. Since I have a fairly small trailer, this system seems a bit overkill. All I really need is something to create a bit of resistance when a big semi blows by me. I think I'm still going to give the friction bar a go. May be just mount it on the straight run as tinkeringtechie suggested. It won't be exactly how the manufacturer wants you to mount it, but it should still work. If it doesn't work then I'll go with the more expensive plan B.[/quote]Just check that when you're turned to the full extents that it doesn't pinch or fall out. I used one on my previous trailer and it had plenty of room to spare in both directions. To test it just put the ball mount in (by hand, no tow vehicle) and move it all the way left and right (with the friction loose of course).
Will do. Good advice, thank you.
As you've discovered, the "pole tongue" frames that are used on the 11' and 13' CLs really limit what you can do in terms of sway control. Ultimately, I decided I really didn't need to bother with it on my 13' CL, but I did look into sway control options when I first got the trailer. After speaking with an Anderson rep, one potential interesting solution was to use *only* the hitch adapter portion of the Anderson system, without the weight distribution bars attached. That should provide a noticeable increase in sway control, but without any weight distribution (which is probably not needed on the 13' CL anyway). Some of these might be worth a glance as well but not sure if they'd fit on the limited tongue space: https://www.etrailer.com/question-13468.html.
Graham
I don't know which models have the 'pole tongue' that's been talked about here. My small-but-mighty CL11FDB doesn't. I use the smallest model of Equal-i-zer sway control weight distribution hitch and it is installed conventionally.
I highly recommend the Equil-i-zer hitches. They are simple, good at sway control, and you can back up with one installed. >> [a href="http://www.equalizerhitch.com/"]Equal-i-zer 4-point sway contro[/a]l <<
[quote timestamp="1463758386" author="@graham" source="/post/21341/thread"]As you've discovered, the "pole tongue" frames that are used on the 11' and 13' CLs really limit what you can do in terms of sway control. Ultimately, I decided I really didn't need to bother with it on my 13' CL, but I did look into sway control options when I first got the trailer. After speaking with an Anderson rep, one potential interesting solution was to use *only* the hitch adapter portion of the Anderson system, without the weight distribution bars attached. That should provide a noticeable increase in sway control, but without any weight distribution (which is probably not needed on the 13' CL anyway). Some of these might be worth a glance as well but not sure if they'd fit on the limited tongue space: https://www.etrailer.com/question-13468.html.
Graham
[/quote][font size="3"]An interesting idea on the Andersen hitch without the WD chains. I had thought of not hooking up the WD chains, but I think the chains would put some additional load on the friction mount, thus adding some to the sway control. Andersen's installation manual does address the "Y style" tongues, but I agree the WD is probably not required on the small trailer. [/font]
[quote timestamp="1463760256" source="/post/21342/thread" author="@peislander"]I don't know which models have the 'pole tongue' that's been talked about here. My small-but-mighty CL11FDB doesn't. I use the smallest model of Equal-i-zer sway control weight distribution hitch and it is installed conventionally.
I highly recommend the Equil-i-zer hitches. They are simple, good at sway control, and you can back up with one installed. >> [a href="http://www.equalizerhitch.com/"]Equal-i-zer 4-point sway contro[/a]l <<[/quote]You have a later CL which utilizes a more "conventional" frame. Both Graham and I have earlier model CL which were built differently. Mine is a 2009 model. Check out the picture that I've posted of the frame/ tongue assembly and you will see the difficulty in trying to install all of these aftermarket WD and sway control systems which are made for conventional frame geometry. The equalizer system probably wouldn't work on the "Y tongue/ pole tongue" frame, because the angle of the WD bars and brackets would be set at a very severe angle to the head assembly. The Anderson system would work as the chains offer more flexibility in its entire length as opposed to rigid bars, I think.
Quote from: @bubbagump" source="/post/21344/thread" timestamp="1463766527You have a later CL which utilizes a more "conventional" frame. Both Graham and I have earlier model CL which were built differently. Mine is a 2009 model. Check out the picture that I've posted of the frame/ tongue assembly and you will see the difficulty in trying to install all of these aftermarket WD and sway control systems which are made for conventional frame geometry. The equalizer system probably wouldn't work on the "Y tongue/ pole tongue" frame, because the angle of the WD bars and brackets would be set at a very severe angle to the head assembly. The Anderson system would work as the chains offer more flexibility in its entire length as opposed to rigid bars, I think.
[font size="3"]Back in late 2012 or early 2013 when I first started talking to LL, I was able to talk with their chief engineer. He was relatively new in the job and I remember him telling me one of the first things he had done was to put in some better tongue designs. I didn't pay much attention at the time since I was looking a a 21.[/font]
In my experience the Andersen offers no sway control without the chains attached. I haul 1 ton in a utility trailer almost daily using the Andersen without the chains and the ball doesn't rotate without the chains attached. I like this as I do not need to readjust to the Camplite when we go camping. Obviously I have no need for a WDH with my combo.
The very reason the Andersen offers sway control is the fact the ball and coupler cannot pivot independently with the chains attached and all twisting must be done through the cone. Like Charlie said there should be no problem fitting an Andersen to your trailer if you choose to.
As an aside, Andersen's cones are now white...rev3 I believe. Black only lasted me 2k miles before the dreaded creaking. White is great at 8K so far.
Thank you for all the comments.
[quote timestamp="1471804952" author="Johnnewnan" source="/post/24025/thread"][div][/div]I have used the EAZ-LIFT friction setup from Camping World for 5 years and it works fine. I got a left-handed model so I could mount the frame ball without having to move the breakaway battery. The ball mounts just where the straight tongue flares to the A frame section just under the propane tank.I tow a 2011 13QBB with a Ford F-150 SuperCrew. [/quote]Ladies and Gentlemen, we have finally found someone with juuuuuust enough tow vehicle for their trailer.