[font size="3"][font face="arial"]Some general info on electrical safety for all RVs. Applicable to our QSs, TCs and Camplites. Thanks to Teckntrek at RPOD-Owners.com for collecting them and Mike Sokol for the material.
[a href="http://www.noshockzone.org/rv-electrical-safety-part-iv-%E2%80%93-hot-skin/"]http://www.noshockzone.org/rv-electrical-safety-part-iv-%E2%80%93-hot-skin/[/a]
[a href="http://www.noshockzone.org/are-little-shocks-ok/"]http://www.noshockzone.org/are-little-shocks-ok/[/a]
[a href="http://www.noshockzone.org/category/rv-safety/"]http://www.noshockzone.org/category/rv-safety/[/a]
[/font][/font]
I'm glad you posted this, I'm about to have a contractor install an RV outlet for me. Now I can check his work. Thanks
Mitch
Can't anyone see the pattern here? To do it right or fix your electrical problem, simply plan a trip to Florida or Washington (which ever is closer) and bring plenty of beer and pizza. Then look for a friendly Livin Lite owner who might post often on these forums.
That would be a lovely trip except in this case I'd have to take may garage because said owner would have to install an RV plug. I can't seem to fit my garage in the 13QBB, maybe I need a bigger camper?
[quote source="/post/1065/thread" timestamp="1400516318" author="@mitch"]I'm glad you posted this, I'm about to have a contractor install an RV outlet for me. Now I can check his work. Thanks
Mitch[/quote]Hi guys,
Make sure your electrician or contractor understands how to properly wire a 120-volt/30-amp TT-30 outlet, if that's your plan. Here's an article I wrote about how a TT-30 outlet can easily be confused with an old style 240-volt/30-amp dryer outlet with dire consequences.
http://www.noshockzone.org/accidentally-plugging-into-240-volt-outlet/
Mike Sokol
www.NoShockZone.org
mike@noshockzone.org
Thanks Mike! The link that Charlie posted above took me to that article also and I've printed it out and studied it. I'll make sure the contractor sees it and I'll be checking the work with a meter when he's done. Last thing I need is to burn up my entire electrical system. Great to have you posting here!
Mitch
[quote source="/post/1105/thread" timestamp="1400581670" author="@mitch"]Thanks Mike! The link that Charlie posted above took me to that article also and I've printed it out and studied it. I'll make sure the contractor sees it and I'll be checking the work with a meter when he's done. Last thing I need is to burn up my entire electrical system. Great to have you posting here!
Mitch[/quote]Don't know if I'm allowed to post this here, but my eBook on RV Electrical Safety is now online http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L2DWBD8
Also, I'll be a guest at the RVtravel live webinar this Saturday at 12 Noon East Coast Time where I'll be answering questions from viewers. Or send your questions in advance to me at mike@noshockzone.org and I'll answer them online. You can view this free webcast live at https://www.youtube.com/user/RVtravel
Mike Sokol
mike@noshockzone.org
www.noshockzone.org
[quote source="/post/1103/thread" timestamp="1400556354" author="@jmsokol"][quote source="/post/1065/thread" timestamp="1400516318" author="@mitch"]
[/quote]
Make sure your electrician or contractor understands how to properly wire a 120-volt/30-amp TT-30 outlet, if that's your plan. Here's an article I wrote about how a TT-30 outlet can easily be confused with an old style 240-volt/30-amp dryer outlet with dire consequences.
[/quote]A friend of mine now owns a new travel trailer because his previous one burned to a crisp due to this exact effup. Electrician was unfamiliar with RV outlets and my friend was clueless too. Good thing insurance pays for "duh."
Quote from: @funpilot" source="/post/1067/thread" timestamp="1400519526Can't anyone see the pattern here? To do it right or fix your electrical problem, simply plan a trip to Florida or Washington (which ever is closer) and bring plenty of beer and pizza. Then look for a friendly Livin Lite owner who might post often on these forums.
I like this answer best. I just hope the frequent techies here don't go into hiding.
I have a QS 8.1 and it came with a 30amp power cord, however the CG where we'll be staying has only 50 amp service. Are the 30 to 50 amp adapters safe? Is there anything in particular I should look for?
Quote from: @sillygoose" timestamp="1414689789" source="/post/4619/threadI have a QS 8.1 and it came with a 30amp power cord, however the CG where we'll be staying has only 50 amp service. Are the 30 to 50 amp adapters safe? Is there anything in particular I should look for?
I would consider a "dog-bone" style adapter such as this: http://www.delcity.net/store/50A-Male-!-30A-Female-Straight-Blade-Adapter/p_801213.h_801214.t_1.r_IF1003?mkwid=Z4AhdE6e&crid=38094426869&gclid=CMe2y-z51MECFQMT7AodrBYAVQ
I don't like the hockey-puck style adapters much since they create too much twist on the outlet. Plus some of the cheap Chinese adapters tend to break internally.
Mike Sokol
[font size="3"]It would be unusual to find a CG with only 50A and no 30A service. Although they may advertise only 50A, that's usually code for "we have up to 50A at all sites", but I've never seen a power pole that didn't have a 30A socket right next to the 50A and most also still have a 20A socket. You may not need the adapter. That said, a 50A/30 adapter is still a good thing to have because you may find sites where the 30A socket in worn out from use but the 50A is serviceable. I carry a yellow dogbone for just that reason. And I fully agree with Mike that the cheap hockey pucks are junk and dangerous. They should have been left on the boat, or better yet, not loaded on the boat to begin with >:(. Good luck on your trip and we'll be waiting for your report ;).
[/font]
We stayed at a private campground and the pillar had 50, 30, 15. The 30 was loose inside the box, and I heard arcing sounds when I connected (got lucky that neither me nor any of my appliances got fried). The 15 was solid, and as this was the winter and I didn't need the A/C, we just shifted over and made sure to not draw enough to melt the hockey puck.
I mentioned it to the maintenance guy I saw while he was riding around in his golf cart and he said "oh yeah, a lot are like that - we can't keep up with all the maintenance".
We won't be going back there.
[quote source="/post/4636/thread" timestamp="1414720653" author="@pinstriper"]I mentioned it to the maintenance guy I saw while he was riding around in his golf cart and he said "oh yeah, a lot are like that - we can't keep up with all the maintenance".
We won't be going back there.[/quote][font size="3"]Definitely check that one off the list![/font]
[quote source="/post/4636/thread" timestamp="1414720653" author="@pinstriper"][/quote]I've been promoting the idea of requiring yearly pedestal checks for proper voltage, current & grounding to a number of RV and campground organizations. This test would also include things such as ground impedance values (should be under 1 ohm) as well as checking for minimum blade tension on the receptacles themselves.
Mike Sokol
No~Shock~Zone
I ALWAYS carry and use one of these.
(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS3i7qfgCC2PUUwOQnFlF-oupOJd9xaduy_EqjIrhyuwlYMtjfE)
(http://cdn3.volusion.com/dxylq.nruds/v/vspfiles/photos/55-8462-2.jpg?1385968103)And I ALWAYS check the pedestal for proper polarity, etc, before plugging in.
[quote source="/post/4663/thread" timestamp="1414770418" author="@icebear"]I ALWAYS carry and use one of these.
(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS3i7qfgCC2PUUwOQnFlF-oupOJd9xaduy_EqjIrhyuwlYMtjfE"%20style="max-width:100%;)
Thanks, Mike. I think your message finally sunk in through my thick skull. The video of the three outlets was telling. Henceforth, I'll always carry the non-contact voltage tester in addition to the bug.
In addition to the general RV safety considerations, there are a couple things to consider for our Camplites. My breaker/fuse panel was cryptically and somewhat randomly labeled (breakers and fuses did not all affect their labeled components). And fuse 10 was not inserted into both receiver slots, a bad connection waiting to happen. I'm in the process of re-labeling the panel. But as a safety heads up, if you work on the electrical system, don't count on the labels being correct.
Further, I had an overhead light that couldn't be turned off. With info from this forum, I figured it might be a short from the aluminum machining. It was. When I took the light off the ceiling and shook out all the aluminum screw debris, the switch worked fine. I'll be checking other places that aluminum machining debris could cause mischief, or worse, safety issues
. I've attempted a couple of photo attachments. I wonder how that will work?