I have a 21BHS and was thinking about the process for changing a flat should it happen on a trip.
1. Do you guys carry a special jack or would you rely on the one in your vehicle? (I currently have a '02 Toyota Sequoia.)
2. Are there concerns for the frame bending/warping when lifting using a jack? Is there a 'best practice' for the tire change?
I'd be curious to hear any tips from others based on real life experience. Especially those with the larger Camplites. I'm trying to be prepared before it happens and this is my first travel trailer! Thank you...
Well, I have real life experience using the tongue jack to raise the wheels to change a tire on a steel frame popup. And I have jacked up my Camplite 16TBS enough with the tongue jack to lift at least one of the wheels off of the ground.
For dual axle trailers like mine, I think I would back the trailer (assuming that both tires on one side weren't flat) over a 2x6" or similar to lift the good wheel. Then tighten up the aft scissor jack and lift the other wheel off of the ground with the tongue jack. That will at least support part of the load on the good wheel.
I doubt if even that precaution is necessary for the aluminum frame. We tend to baby the aluminum frame, which is mostly unnecessary. But if you use a car jack like a scissor jack, put a 2x4" between it and the aluminum frame to spread out the point load.
David
[quote timestamp="1458587429" source="/post/19756/thread" author="@swilky"]Something like this
OR this.
[a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-jE_x_TjlOI"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-jE_x_TjlOI[/a]
[/quote]This is fascinating. Found it on Amazon. [a href="http://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Aid-Plus-Tandem-Changing/dp/B001V8UKBO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458588904&sr=8-1&keywords=trailer+aid"]Link.[/a] Anyone have any competing opinions on these?
The bottle jack in the Sequoia will hold the weight, but I would not use it due to the risk of slipping off the frame. The tire jacks like in your illustrations/links are the way to go. I just use the Andersen model as a jack because I already have those on board to level the camper left-right on a campsite.
Oh, and you probably already know that if you use a regular jack, never put it under the axle. The Dexter axles are hollow and they will bend.
You should rig a line to the nearest tall tree and hoist it by it's own petard.
Get the Andersen Rapid Jack, you can use for other things as well; Quickly level your trailer, use it to raise one side when dumping your black tank, use it to put the trailer tongue wheel into when parking your rig.
[quote source="/post/19766/thread" author="@montedtrotter1" timestamp="1458599966"]Get the Andersen Rapid Jack, you can use for other things as well; Quickly level your trailer, use it to raise one side when dumping your black tank, use it to put the trailer tongue wheel into when parking your rig. [/quote]Will do. Do you have two for leveling or just one. Haven't had to level the trailer yet.
I have a stack of plastic blocks for leveling, that would also be what I use for a flat (yay dual axles ! Take THAT 2016 Models !)
Every thing you need in 1 bag
https://www.andersenhitches.com/Products/3600--ultimate-trailer-gear-duffel-bag.aspx
Quote from: @thedusty" source="/post/19767/thread" timestamp="1458603443Do you have two for leveling or just one. Haven't had to level the trailer yet.
They are in sold in packs of two (for around $40 I believe), so for leveling the trailer from side to side you put one under each wheel (on the same side). Then for changing a tire as mentioned earlier, you only use one (don't put one under the tire that you are changing). We have a set of them and they work very well and are easy to use.
I just bought these Andersen levelers and the instructions note that cutting them might be necessary. Has anyone else with a 21BHS had to cut theirs? If so, any suggestions?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160402/7932218783adb0491dd1286de7afa6fc.jpg)
I cut mine with a regular handsaw so it would fit between the tires. I made the cut at an angle to make a smooth ramp for backing onto it. Looks like you'll need to do the same.
The Anderson Levelers definitely need to be trimmed to fit a 21 BHS.
We made a video of the first time we tried ours:
[a href="https://youtu.be/AG7-aM3DfPQ"]
[/a]
[video src="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AG7-aM3DfPQ"][/video]
Shows about how much they need to be trimmed.
I think they are just about the greatest thing since sliced bread!
Can you get away with trimming one or do they both need to be done?
Probably just need to trim one (the one that goes in between the two wheels). But that's just a guess.
In theory you could just trim one.
I trimmed both so they would be symmetrical, both ideally raising each axle the same amount. If only one was trimmed, I imagine the untrimmed one lifting later, and hence less.
I think.
I thought of that too (after I posted my response). You're probably right Eddie.
As a relevant aside, make sure to carry a lug wrench to get the wheels off/on.
Appreciate the information in this thread.
Our next camper will have tandem axles and been wondering about the best way to suspend a wheel since our current Mighty 11 has one axle.
Using bottle jack on single axle aluminum frame on the Mighty 11. Use a jack stand in case the camper slips off of the bottle jack for safety. Keeping the trailer hitch connected to the TV helps greatly with stability, too.
[a href="http://s657.photobucket.com/user/vstromklr/media/2015/IMG_7813_zpsd2gxtwqe.jpg.html"]
[img style="max-width:100%;" src="http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/uu299/vstromklr/2015/IMG_7813_zpsd2gxtwqe.jpg"][/a]
[a href="http://s657.photobucket.com/user/vstromklr/media/2015/IMG_7814_zps0wxyqqoy.jpg.html"]
(http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/uu299/vstromklr/2015/IMG_7814_zps0wxyqqoy.jpg)
[quote source="/post/20130/thread" timestamp="1459686167" author="@sandroad"]As a relevant aside, make sure to carry a lug wrench to get the wheels off/on. [/quote]
This might be a dumb question, but will the lug wrench already on the truck not work? (My trailer is at a storage spot so it's not easy to run out and check.)
It depends on the size of your truck's lug wrench. The one included with mine is too large but thats exactly why I also carry a 4 size lug wrench in the truck box so I dont have to worry about it.
[quote source="/post/20173/thread" author="@thedusty" timestamp="1459786446"][quote timestamp="1459686167" author="@sandroad" source="/post/20130/thread"]As a relevant aside, make sure to carry a lug wrench to get the wheels off/on. [/quote]This might be a dumb question, but will the lug wrench already on the truck not work? (My trailer is at a storage spot so it's not easy to run out and check.) [/quote]You may need to check when you can. My Tacoma has a different size lug nuts than does my Camplite. (When my tow vehicle was a Jeep, its lugs were the same size as the Camplite).
Ahh but everyone is missing a key item! According to the book you should be checking the torque on your camper wheels regularly therefore you must have a torque wrench and by extension the proper lug nut size! If you don't you're all going to camper jail!! Do not pass go do not collect $200. I've reported this thread to the proper authorities, you'll hear sirens shortly I'm sure.
Signed
The Camper Or Wheel Society (COWS for short)
[quote source="/post/20177/thread" author="@mitch" timestamp="1459788422"]Ahh but everyone is missing a key item! According to the book you should be checking the torque on your camper wheels regularly therefore you must have a torque wrench and by extension the proper lug nut size! If you don't you're all going to camper jail!! Do not pass go do not collect $200. I've reported this thread to the proper authorities, you'll hear sirens shortly I'm sure.
Signed
The Camper Or Wheel Society (COWS for short)[/quote]I do the check at home B4 I leave so I can leave the torque wrench at home. Take a 4 way with me on the road just in case.
what??? you mean i cant just stand on the handle when tightening to give it that extra little bit?
[quote timestamp="1459795810" author="@admin" source="/post/20184/thread"]what??? you mean i cant just stand on the handle when tightening to give it that extra little bit?[/quote]Give'r til it squeaks just the right pitch. (If the stud breaks you've tightened too much).
We bought a torque wrench and a 19mm socket for the lug nuts on our 21BHS. It works great. I check the lug nuts and tire pressure before and during a trip, especially when preparing to leave on a long drive.
Quote from: @gbpack" source="/post/20191/thread" timestamp="1459805799We bought a torque wrench and a 19mm socket for the lug nuts on our 21BHS. It works great. I check the lug nuts and tire pressure before and during a trip, especially when preparing to leave on a long drive.
And as a result you will not be arrested by the camper police, Good job!!
Walmart sells an expandable lever lug wrench with 4 socket sizes in a plastic pouch similar to what comes standard in a tow vehicle. It is like a long long 3/4 inch bar. When extended, the lever is longer than a 4 way wrench and takes up less room. Mine works on all the lug nut sizes from utility trailer to boat to Camplite to truck. It costs about $20.
Quote from: @admin" timestamp="1459795810" source="/post/20184/threadwhat??? you mean i cant just stand on the handle when tightening to give it that extra little bit?
I know you're joking, but...
Applying correct torque can be pretty straightforward using your method.
100 ft/lbs is simply 100 lbs applied at a 1 foot arm. If you weigh 100 lbs and have a 1' wrench, stand on it and you're golden.
Or, if you weigh about 200 lbs, find a 6" wrench or stand 1/2 way out on your 1' wrench.
In a pinch, a fish scale will do. If you have a 2' arm, 50 lbs of pull will do it.
And so on. The math is easy for odd length wrenches.
You may laugh, but there are many times when a torque wrench is not handy or can't reach an odd fitting and one needs to get creative!
I don't recall if I have ever seen a jack or lug wrench on my new 13QBB. Does this equipment come standard with the trailers? if so, where would it be located?
Quote from: @silverfox" source="/post/20557/thread" timestamp="1460666404I don't recall if I have ever seen a jack or lug wrench on my new 13QBB. Does this equipment come standard with the trailers? if so, where would it be located?
I don't think any of them come with jacks or wrenches.
On mine it is the same as the stab jacks so the supplied crank does both.
Any jack recommendations for us single axle types?
I just had an opportunity to use the roll up on a ramp (dual axles only) trick. It worked fine. I had to put a 2x6" under the ramp to get enough height so that the non lifted tire would turn free.
And another tip: I tried using a 3/8" drive breakover bar with a 19 mm socket. It wasn't strong enough. It takes a 1/2" drive bar to break loose the lug nuts as tightened at the factory.
Why did I remove a tire? Well we took our camper out last night to a nearby state forest for a shake down campout and I noticed that one of the four tires was nearly bald. The other three looked almost new. So I removed the wheel and tire and took it to Town Fair Tires for a replacement. They had one in stock and it was a Road Pioneer brand- $89.
The TFT guy said that the wear pattern was indicative of "belt shifting" and he thought an out of balance condition could cause it. I figure defective Chinese junk. But maybe Road Pioneer is Chinese junk as well.
BTW, any one know what the "D" means in the size spec as in 175/75D13?
David
[quote timestamp="1461008577" author="@david" source="/post/20647/thread"]
BTW, any one know what the "D" means in the size spec as in 175/75D13?
David[/quote][font size="3"] I have seen it a few times.[/font][font size="3"] I have always assumed it meant load range D.[/font]
[quote source="/post/20647/thread" author="@david" timestamp="1461008577"]
BTW, any one know what the "D" means in the size spec as in 175/75D13?
David[/quote]I think it mean ply bias tire and when it's R it means Radial.
[quote timestamp="1461008577" source="/post/20647/thread" author="@david"]
Why did I remove a tire? Well we took our camper out last night to a nearby state forest for a shake down campout and I noticed that one of the four tires was nearly bald. The other three looked almost new. So I removed the wheel and tire and took it to Town Fair Tires for a replacement. They had one in stock and it was a Road Pioneer brand- $89.
The TFT guy said that the wear pattern was indicative of "belt shifting" and he thought an out of balance condition could cause it. I figure defective Chinese junk. But maybe Road Pioneer is Chinese junk as well.
[/quote][font size="3"]David,
Road Pioneer? Maybe from the same stores that sell those well known batteries like ChargeMaster, EverLast, StartWell, RunsLong, NeverDead, etc.?[/font] :D
[quote timestamp="1461020592" source="/post/20654/thread" author="@paul"][quote timestamp="1461008577" author="@david" source="/post/20647/thread"]BTW, any one know what the "D" means in the size spec as in 175/75D13?
David[/quote]I think it mean ply bias tire and when it's R it means Radial.
[/quote]D denotes a diagonal ply tire. B is bias and R is radial.
Thanks whoofit, that answer makes sense. I know that R refers to radial which is the way the cord is laid up on the tire. But what is diagonal vs bias (they seem like the same) and how is diagonal better for trailers. Both the old and the new tire I just bought are Ds.
David
[quote timestamp="1460669611" author="@pinstriper" source="/post/20560/thread"]On mine it is the same as the stab jacks so the supplied crank does both.[/quote]As the lug nuts came tightened from the factory, there is no way the supplied crank with for the 19mm stabilizer jack nuts could break them loose. As David found, a 1/2 drive breaker bar with a 19mm hex socket with lots of force was necessary.
[quote timestamp="1461077486" author="@sandroad" source="/post/20669/thread"][quote timestamp="1460669611" source="/post/20560/thread" author="@pinstriper"]On mine it is the same as the stab jacks so the supplied crank does both.[/quote]As the lug nuts came tightened from the factory, there is no way the supplied crank with for the 19mm stabilizer jack nuts could break them loose. As David found, a 1/2 drive breaker bar with a 19mm hex socket with lots of force was necessary. [/quote]Probably couldn't move them with a standard lug wrench, either.
But the question was why no wrench or jack was supplied. The answer is, use the jack from the TV, and the socket size for the stab jacks.
I used to carry a 3' section of steel pipe in my horse trailer to slip over the arm of my "X" shaped lug wrench, for extra leverage. Once I had to stand on the pipe to get the lug bolt to move. I don't think that would be possible with the crankie thing.
Personally, I would use the Ryobi nut driver/impact wrench I have for the stab jacks.
[p]Who needs a Jack[/p][p][attachment id="1337" thumbnail="1"][/p]
Thats gotta be Florida
Quote from: @david" source="/post/20666/thread" timestamp="1461070228Thanks whoofit, that answer makes sense. I know that R refers to radial which is the way the cord is laid up on the tire. But what is diagonal vs bias (they seem like the same) and how is diagonal better for trailers. Both the old and the new tire I just bought are Ds.
David
David, it was explained to me that D was chosen to differentiate between Diagonal Bias and Belted Bias tires. D was preferred as it rang well with Diagonal.
Bias tracks straighter. Important for trailers. Not that Radials can't do well there either. Radials are better for high speeds, not really relevant for trailers for safety reasons. Radials stand up to high temps better as well. Bias will corner better, with stiffer sidewalls, and track better by design. A sound choice for trailer tires all in all.
So as not to start a debate on which is better they are just different. I run Maxxis Radials for no particular reason. I wouldn't really care if they were Bias or LT for that matter.
The LH99 Vail Sport tires I just took off my Camplite are actually labeled both D and B. On the sidewall are both sizes: 175/80D-13 AND B78-13. I put them up for sale on Craigslist and used the 175/80D-13 description of the size.
I run the Maxxis radials as well and have had them on my trailer for about nine months and have just had our one year anniversary owning our 21BHS. I have been much more comfortable with running the radials but this past weekend confirmed my decision to buy new tires for a new trailer! I got into a tight spot at a busy QT gas station and made a right turn too tight, making the trailer go over a very high (ridiculously high) curb. My first thought was that I just ruined one maybe two tires; got it parked and checked the tires. To my surprise not a problem and very little blemish on the side walls. I told my wife we just got our money back on the new tires! Maybe the bias ply tire would have survived as well but man I am glad I had good radial tires on the trailer. Also had one of those learning curve experiences, OH this is what happens when you make a right turn too tight!
[quote source="/post/20713/thread" author="@swilky" timestamp="1461173693"]
Quote from: @paul" source="/post/20654/thread" timestamp="1461020592I think it mean ply bias tire and when it's R it means Radial.
STRAIGHT FROM LIVINLITE OWNERS MANUAL
Tire Markings
Sample tire size: ST175/80D-13 (Your tire may be different)
• ST reflects the "Street Tire vehicle" usage. Street Tire vehicle tires are commonly used on small
trailers.
• 175 indicates the "contact patch" width. The contact patch is the amount of tire surface that
actually comes into contact with the pavement. In this case the width is 175 millimeters wide.
• 80 indicates the height to width ratio of the tire.
• 13 is the rim size. This is the only measurement made in inches.
• D is the load range.[/quote]Sadly, if that's what the Owner's Manual reads, it's wrong. The tires that were on my trailer were size ST175/80D-13 and they were Load Range C.
According to the internet, D is for Bias ply tires, B is for belted tires and R is for radials. Many sites list the difference in Bias and radial tires. Bias is the cheaper way to go, less wear/shorter life, more fuel consumption.