I have a previous generation '02 Toyota Sequoia 4.7L V8 SUV and I'm considering purchasing a Camplite 28BHS. The Sequoia is rated for 6,500lbs and the 28BHS dry weight is about 4,250lbs. I was curious if anyone has any real world feedback on how well this combo would work.... I currently tow a Yamaha SX190 boat (its trailer has NO brakes) without issue and it's about 3,000lbs. Thank you in advance...
That model Sequoia shares the same frame, running gear and engine with the Tacoma. You should be fine towing with that rig. Although, watch the rear sag when you load the hitch. If it is more than 2", consider a WDH. Lots of discussion here about a 21' LL and coupler bending with a WDH, so if you go that way, read the prior posts.
David
[quote timestamp="1442514047" source="/post/15314/thread" author="@david"]That model Sequoia shares the same frame, running gear and engine with the Tacoma. You should be fine towing with that rig. Although, watch the rear sag when you load the hitch. If it is more than 2", consider a WDH. Lots of discussion here about a 21' LL and coupler bending with a WDH, so if you go that way, read the prior posts.
David[/quote]David: Thanks for the input. I had read that gen Sequoia was based off of the Tundra, which is bigger than a Tacoma. Mine has a 4.7L V8 with about 315lb of torque. Did that gen Tundra (it followed the T100) share a frame with a Tacoma? I did some searching and I couldn't find a link but perhaps you know something I don't.
I have this WDH. See link below. I had bought it to try and use with my boat but the boat's trailer frame layout wouldn't work with it. I would likely use with the 28BHS since the tongue weight should be a match. Let me know what you think.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024E6XBA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
[quote timestamp="1442515546" author="@thedusty" source="/post/15315/thread"][quote timestamp="1442514047" author="@david" source="/post/15314/thread"]That model Sequoia shares the same frame, running gear and engine with the Tacoma. You should be fine towing with that rig. Although, watch the rear sag when you load the hitch. If it is more than 2", consider a WDH. Lots of discussion here about a 21' LL and coupler bending with a WDH, so if you go that way, read the prior posts.
David[/quote]David: Thanks for the input. I had read that gen Sequoia was based off of the Tundra, which is bigger than a Tacoma. Mine has a 4.7L V8 with about 315lb of torque. Did that gen Tundra (it followed the T100) share a frame with a Tacoma? I did some searching and I couldn't find a link but perhaps you know something I don't.
I have this WDH. See link below. I had bought it to try and use with my boat but the boat's trailer frame layout wouldn't work with it. I would likely use with the 28BHS since the tongue weight should be a match. Let me know what you think.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024E6XBA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
[/quote]You're correct, the Sequoia is based on the Tundra. I have the 5.7L and it's a beast. I might beat you onto the freeway or up a steep hill, but they're structurally the same. So I think you'll be more than happy with it. I'm curious if our gas mileage while towing will be any different than mine. I'm guessing they'll end up about the same.
I misspoke, the Sequoia uses the Tundra chassis, as Tinkeringtechie notes above.
Hitch weights on LL products (probably all trailers) are highly variable. My 16TBS is borderline light at 300 lbs loaded with gear. Some 21RBS owners report a hitch weight of almost 500 lbs. LLs specs say 520 lbs for the 28BHS, but it could easily be 600 lbs which is why I suggested measuring sag. With that suspension and heavy chassis of the Sequoia, I don't think you will need it for sway control.
The WDH you linked to should work well. To work with the LL aluminum frame you want the lightest bars possible. A LL rep told me of one owner who tightened the bar way down and bent the frame. Charlie bent the coupler with reasonable tension on his 21'er. I think that the 28' has a heavier coupler than a 21 but I would still add a couple of bolts in the bottom through the forward frame members to keep it from bending. The LL factory only bolts to the frame with vertical bolts and since you can't weld the galvanized steel coupler to the aluminum frame like you can with a steel frame, a couple of bolts accomplishes the same thing.
David
As I've noted elsewhere, I really like the Toyota 4.7L V8 and think it's one of the best engines ever offered in a vehicle. Your Sequoia has the 4 speed and it's a good transmission. I agree with David that you need to watch the hitch weight and coupler. Your 28BHS will weigh a lot more than 4250 going down the road, but you'll be fine with the Sequoia, which is no lightweight!
[quote source="/post/15323/thread" timestamp="1442526558" author="@sandroad"]As I've noted elsewhere, I really like the Toyota 4.7L V8 and think it's one of the best engines ever offered in a vehicle. Your Sequoia has the 4 speed and it's a good transmission. I agree with David that you need to watch the hitch weight and coupler. Your 28BHS will weigh a lot more than 4250 going down the road, but you'll be fine with the Sequoia, which is no lightweight! [/quote]Yup, that's exactly the model we have. I call it the tank because it's indestructible....so far. You seem pretty familiar with engines... I'd enjoy hearing why you're so fond of the 4.7L if you don't mind.
Also, every now and then I read about transmission coolers. I'm not familiar with them though. This truck is getting old...140k miles. But is a transmission cooler something I should consider?
[quote source="/post/15318/thread" timestamp="1442520812" author="@david"]I misspoke, the Sequoia uses the Tundra chassis, as Tinkeringtechie notes above.
Hitch weights on LL products (probably all trailers) are highly variable. My 16TBS is borderline light at 300 lbs loaded with gear. Some 21RBS owners report a hitch weight of almost 500 lbs. LLs specs say 520 lbs for the 28BHS, but it could easily be 600 lbs which is why I suggested measuring sag. With that suspension and heavy chassis of the Sequoia, I don't think you will need it for sway control.
The WDH you linked to should work well. To work with the LL aluminum frame you want the lightest bars possible. A LL rep told me of one owner who tightened the bar way down and bent the frame. Charlie bent the coupler with reasonable tension on his 21'er. I think that the 28' has a heavier coupler than a 21 but I would still add a couple of bolts in the bottom through the forward frame members to keep it from bending. The LL factory only bolts to the frame with vertical bolts and since you can't weld the galvanized steel coupler to the aluminum frame like you can with a steel frame, a couple of bolts accomplishes the same thing.
[/quote]
Camplite shows a hitch weight of 530lbs....is that not accurate in real life?
http://www.livinlite.com/camplite28bhs-overview.php
Unfortuantely I'm not that familiar with the WDH so I'm not digesting some of what you said regarding the tips on how to install it. I'm going to have to learn more. Is it reasonable to assume the dealer would help me install it properly when I go to pick up the unit?
[quote source="/post/15329/thread" timestamp="1442549938" author="@thedusty"]Camplite shows a hitch weight of 530lbs....is that not accurate in real life?
http://www.livinlite.com/camplite28bhs-overview.php
Unfortuantely I'm not that familiar with the WDH so I'm not digesting some of what you said regarding the tips on how to install it. I'm going to have to learn more. Is it reasonable to assume the dealer would help me install it properly when I go to pick up the unit
[/quote][font size="3"]The catalog tongue weight is with one empty propane tank, no batteries, no water in any tank including the water heater, and probably no A/C or microwave. For example my 21RBS is quoted at 420# tongue weight. When outfitted for camping with two full propane bottles, two batteries, A/C, microwave, and 6 gallons in the water heater but empty water tanks, my tongue weighs 525#. I would expect the 28BHS to be around 650# loaded up.
My standard advice to new WDH users is to get the book, read the book, understand the book, and go through the installation and adjustment procedures yourself. Don't trust the dealer to do it right. There are too many cases of dealers misinstalling and/or misadjusting the WDH. This can be dangerous. A misadjusted WDH can be more dangerous than no WDH. I speak from personal experience here. [/font]
Upon further reflection, do not use the EzyLift hitch referenced above. It bolts on to the frame which is not recommended with the aluminum frame. Use a clamp on mount like this Reese: http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Reese/RP66558.html. Even at 650 lbs hitch weight, which I agree with Charlie is entirely possible, stick with the 600 lb bars such as the Reese. You will only need to transfer 200-300# of weight forward and the 600 lb bars will do that without putting too much strain on the aluminum frame.
Follow the instructions about how to adjust the shank angle and the bar tension. The basic principle is that the front and back ends of the TV sag the same amount with the trailer hitched up. But err on putting more sag on the rear than the front to limit bar tension and stress on the frame.
With regard to transmission coolers: If your Sequoia has a factory tow package, then it has a transmission cooler. If not, it still might have a transmission cooler. Crawl under and take a look. You will see steel lines going forward from the transmission to the front end cooler. Often the factory cooler is integrated with the radiator. But if not you can add one, and if you are going to be towing 5,000+ lbs then I would do it.
One other issue to consider- transmission torque converter lock up. Your transmission may only lock up in fourth gear. When a transmission is not locked up and is pulling a heavy load the hydraulic slip in the torque converter produces large amounts of heat, much more than unlocked. So watch going up long grades. Normally I advocate shifting down (and slowing down) going up grades. But not if your transmission unlocks as it drops into a lower gear.
How do you know if it is locked or unlocked. Go out on a level road and get up to a steady 60 mph so you know you are in top gear. Then goose the throttle lightly. The rpm should not jump, but should slowly climb. Then slow down to 40 and downshift and try it again. If the rpms immediately jump about 200+ rpm when you goose it, then it is unlocked. You can experiment and find which gears lock and which unlock. On my 2001 F150 with a 5 speed automatic, only the top two gears would lock the torque converter.
So, a lot to consider and probably 99% of the time you will be fine with no WDH, no transmission cooler and not worrying about converter lockup. But it's that last 1% that can get you.
David
[quote source="/post/15341/thread" timestamp="1442583815" author="@david"]One other issue to consider- transmission torque converter lock up. Your transmission may only lock up in fourth gear. When a transmission is not locked up and is pulling a heavy load the hydraulic slip in the torque converter produces large amounts of heat, much more than unlocked. So watch going up long grades. Normally I advocate shifting down (and slowing down) going up grades. But not if your transmission unlocks as it drops into a lower gear.
How do you know if it is locked or unlocked. Go out on a level road and get up to a steady 60 mph so you know you are in top gear. Then goose the throttle lightly. The rpm should not jump, but should slowly climb. Then slow down to 40 and downshift and try it again. If the rpms immediately jump about 200+ rpm when you goose it, then it is unlocked. You can experiment and find which gears lock and which unlock. On my 2001 F150 with a 5 speed automatic, only the top two gears would lock the torque converter.
So, a lot to consider and probably 99% of the time you will be fine with no WDH, no transmission cooler and not worrying about converter lockup. But it's that last 1% that can get you.
David[/quote][font size="3"]Some further info specifically on Toyota. I tow with a 2013 Tacoma. The Tacoma reports two transmission temperatures, one just after the torque converter and one closer to the fluid reservoir. The first responds very quickly. I usually tow in 4th gear as recommended in the manual. Occasionally, on long flat runs, I drop into 5th (OD) and watch. The RPMs drop as expected, but the first transmission temp reading climbs almost immediately. The instantaneous fuel economy levels out at approximately the same place as expected since it take the same HP to pull the trailer, but the transmission is generating more heat. That heat must ultimately come from gasoline and my checkbook :'([/font]
Quote from: @thedusty" source="/post/15328/thread" timestamp="1442549516Also, every now and then I read about transmission coolers. I'm not familiar with them though. This truck is getting old...140k miles. But is a transmission cooler something I should consider?
Our Sequoia has a transmission temp gauge right on the dash. Does yours? It might have been one of the bells and whistles that they added in the later years. It's on the far left gauge below the tachometer. If you do, just keep an eye on that before you change anything. If it stays nominal then don't worry about it. Also, do you have a "Tow/Haul" button? If so, it will make the transmission make much more intelligent decisions about gear selection (both for acceleration and engine braking) and keep the tranny cool.