Apologies if some of this has been covered elsewhere - I suspect it has.
On a handful of occasions we've unplugged from shore power with the fridge on "Automatic" and the LP valve to one tank open and the fridge at temps in the mid 30's. We have then arrived at our destination with the fridge temp up to 50º or more. Have tried the drill of making sure the stove was getting LP (it was) and turning the fridge on and off 4 or 5 times as the manual suggests. None of this seemed to work to get the fridge cooling again, in case there was air in the lines or the pilot had blown out enroute.
Main questions involve determining if the LP circuit for the fridge is functioning:
1) There's an exhaust labeled "CAUTION - HOT!" or words to that effect by the fridge access panel. Should hot air be exiting from there when the fridge is cooling on LP?
2) Is there a way to visually check to see if the pilot light is on? Looking with the panel off I did not see any obvious flame.
The fridge works fine on shore power, which we usually try to arrange, but need it working on LP for those nights boondocking at Walmart or elsewhere.
Thanks in advance
Eddie, when I picked up our camper at SIRV they showed me how to check and see if the flame was there. Took of the outside cover and in the bottom right, where the air (or gas) tube enters you should be able to see the flame behind it. You sorta have to get your head pretty close at bottom left side and look behind the tube. I've checked mine numerous time while traveling. Never had it blow out even running 70 MPH on the interstate during our 1900 mile trip back. Sorry I can't get you a picture but I am at work.
When you remove power and the fridge selects gas or when you turn it off and back on it goes through a light cycle. If you listen the spark igniter will click for about a minute. Then if the pilot didn't light it will stop clicking until you turn it off and on again and start the cycle over again.
If it lights then you can hear it burn if it is quiet out or you can feel hot air coming out the top vent after a few minutes. It always takes 3-4 cycles to get all of the air out of mine even with the stove burners working if the LPG valve has been off for a while.
So first check for clicking. if not then you have something obviously wrong with the lighting circuit. But if it is clicking it may take more than 4 tries to get all of the air out.
David
[font size="3"]Eddie,
First, there is no pilot light. The main (only) burner fires when it's needed. When it's running you can hear it if you listen next to the lower outside grill. You should also be able to feel heat near the burner chimney in the lower vent opening and feel heat exiting the upper vent. I think you can see the burner flame if you open and look inside the lower vent, but it's flooding here in central FL and I'm not a duck.
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CharlieM and David have hit the nail on the head. Whenever I unplug shore power, I wait by the lower vent. I can hear the clicking if the ignitor and then the sound of the flame igniting. At the start of a trip, I light the stove to get the air out of the line. From that point, through the rest of the trip, the refrigerator ignites usually on the first round of clicks. If it does kot, it usually flashes a code on the refrigerator readout.
Thanks for the input. From that I suspect I have a real problem.
Earlier today I unplugged shore power before heading out on errands. When I got back the fridge was up to 43º. Opened the door to make sure it was definitely warm enough to kick on - nothing. I mean I can hear it running but no apparent flame igniting.
Ran the stove for a couple minutes, then turned the fridge off and on about 10 times. Never got any lighting of a flame that I could see, nor any heat from the exhaust.
My guess is I need someone to take a look at this and troubleshoot the problem.
Did you hear the igniter clicking?
David
I hear something click a few seconds after I turn the fridge on.
[quote source="/post/13922/thread" timestamp="1438638576" author="@fasteddieb"]I hear something click a few seconds after I turn the fridge on.[/quote]After unplugging shore power, I'll hear a series of about 8 to 10 clicks and then VERY faintly hear the ignition of the propane. After that, the clicking stops. It is a very small flame and the heat out of the top vent does take a while to make it up there. It is about the same amount o heat as you would feel from the electric heater, maybe a tiny bit more but not much.
Perhaps you had a wasp build a nest inside the burner.
not sure of the model you have, but ours will go through 2 or 3 cycles and if it doesnt light, it will throw the check light. it seems like lighting the stove for a minute if everything has been unused for awhile (air int he system) clears the air out and the hw heater and fridge light right away after that
Eddie,
If you feel comfortable doing a little troubleshooting, you may want to try the following. Remove the burner shroud, there are probably 2 or 3 screws holding it on. This will expose the burner and the igniter rod. Have someone inside turn on the unit as you watch for the spark. If you get a good spark and it doesn't light, then look at the gas solenoid. You can probe the solenoid and look for the 12v signal during the start sequence. If the 12v signal is present and it don't light, then this is more than likely the problem. To confirm this, first shut off your propane supply, disconnect the battery and shore power. Now disconnect the propane line at the gas solenoid. turn on the tank and check for flow. After you reassemble the line, paint the connection with soapy water and watch for bubbles. If you didn't get a 12v signal at the solenoid, then look at the control board. Visually inspect the board for any obvious burning or discoloration. Also check all the fuses on the board. There are more components that can be evaluated if need be, but this will be a start in the right direction.
Thanks, James.
Will try to play with this later.
[font face="comic sans ms" size="4"]I have the same problem with my reefer. Thanks for the tips. [/font]
Questions regarding LP and fridge and hot water heater:
1. The fridge works off both LP and electric, LP when in that mode and electric when hooked up to shore power; is it one or the other and never both at the same time?
2. Same question as above for the hot water heater, I vaguely remember someone saying that using electric and propane makes the water a little hotter. We have a light switch looking switch that turns red (no indication as to what this switch is on the switch plate) when the electric is on for the HWH. There is also a hot water heater switch that turns red when first turning on the LP gas then goes out a few seconds later indicating the heater is on. Again if both switches are on, do both electric and LP gas heat the water and if so is it quicker to heat water this way?
James,
I just tried what you suggested.
With the cover off, I just unplugged shore power. About 5 seconds later there was a click, then another, then a little whoosh. I assume the flame got going, since the little box I think the flame is in started getting hot.
So, I may try to verify this each time when getting on the road and see if it continues to cool.
BTW, is the vent marked "HOT" supposed to be exhausting hot air when the propane is running the fridge? I was getting no heat from there.
MonteD,
Did you pay extra for your water heater to be dual mode? My 2014 is LP only. On mine one switch is for the water pump and one is for the water heater (the one with the red light that goes out with ignition).
Quote from: @monted" source="/post/13957/thread" timestamp="1438724873Questions regarding LP and fridge and hot water heater:
1. The fridge works off both LP and electric, LP when in that mode and electric when hooked up to shore power; is it one or the other and never both at the same time?
2. Same question as above for the hot water heater, I vaguely remember someone saying that using electric and propane makes the water a little hotter. We have a light switch looking switch that turns red (no indication as to what this switch is on the switch plate) when the electric is on for the HWH. There is also a hot water heater switch that turns red when first turning on the LP gas then goes out a few seconds later indicating the heater is on. Again if both switches are on, do both electric and LP gas heat the water and if so is it quicker to heat water this way?
[font size="3"]The fridge runs on LP or electric, but not both at the same time.
If you have the dual mode WH it will work on LP, electric, or both simultaneously. With both modes running the water will heat almost twice as fast. This is called the recovery time and may be useful when waiting for a second shower or more dishes. The max temperature is not greatly affected, but the electric thermostat is set
slightly higher so the electric element takes precedence over the gas burner if both are engaged. The lighted red toggle switch is for the 120V electric element, but the little black switch on the WH itself must also be on.
Make sure the WH is full before turning on the electric element to avoid burnout. [/font]
[quote source="/post/13959/thread" timestamp="1438726920" author="@fasteddieb"]James,
I just tried what you suggested.
With the cover off, I just unplugged shore power. About 5 seconds later there was a click, then another, then a little whoosh. I assume the flame got going, since the little box I think the flame is in started getting hot.
So, I may try to verify this each time when getting on the road and see if it continues to cool.
BTW, is the vent marked "HOT" supposed to be exhausting hot air when the propane is running the fridge? I was getting no heat from there.[/quote]Sounds like you got the flame going. There is not a lot of heat generated since it is a small flame, but over time that vent will probably get warm. I never checked mine to see how hot it gets after a while.
I listen for the sound of the flame starting every time I unhook shore power.