Ok. It was dark and I wasn't thinking straight......
Removed trailer battery to try and "jump" my tow ( long story ). Went to dinner. Came back, no outside light?? Of course, reconnect battery, dummy.
No refrigerator!!?? Land line is ok. Why didn't it kick into propane??. Buttons and display won't work. PANIC!! Week 4 of two month trip and it's Sunday Night. No sensor panel lights. No hot water heater. No Jensen stereo.
Desperate call into Livin Lite on Monday ( dealer closed on Monday, of course ) . Left message for Don. Panic. THEN I see the LIGHT!!!! Go outside and reverse the battery connections. Wife says Refrigerator is ON!!! All is good. Blew two 30 amp fuses at panel that protect reverse wiring. Everything is working fine now, except the Jensen. The Fuse in the panel is ok, pressed the reset...nothing. Will pull it out to see if I blew an inline fuse. Darn screws are very hard to remove. It's ALWAYS SOMETHING! HDF...( HIGH DUMMY FACTOR )
Moral of my story: All this could have been AVOIDED if I had LABELED MY POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE WIRES. I will do so. ALSO I recommend that you buy extra fuses for the converter box. I was lucky to have some in my vehicle, not the right style, but worked temporarily. And try not to hook up your battery at night in the rain!!
Happy Trails.....
[font size="3"]Other than the obvious caution on connecting your battery wrong at night, please note: The reverse battery protection fuses in our converters protect only the converter electronics. Everything else connected to the 12V bus, including all those 15A fuses, is vulnerable to reverse voltage. Some appliances are insensitive to battery reversal, but not all. Fuses will not protect against reversal unless the designer specifically intended it. Be careful.
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OOooopppppsssss.....
The good news is that it WAS the 10 amp fuse in the Jensen.
Everything is working now. Life is good. We love our "Palace".
Thanks
even better...add a set of automotive terminals with studs. then you can hook multiple accessory wires to the studs and they are color coded so the chance of hooking them up backwards is pretty slim
i used them for my crossover cables but they could just as easily be used for the individual connections. as a bonus you only have to worry about unhooking a single connector instead of dealing with all of the individual wires and ring connectors
[img style="" style="max-width:75%;" src="http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q439/mushr00min/camper/ce34d849-bdce-4027-914c-b82655c81090_zpslc4rkvt9.jpg"]
I'm about to install one of these on mine:
http://www.amazon.com/Driver-Battery-Connect-Recovery-Products/dp/B00FXWLD88/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438954293&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+quick+connect
A simple and easy way to avoid reverse hook ups in my situation, and it allows me to pull the battery in seconds in between trips. Granted I'm dealing with lower amps than most CLs but it might still be an option for some
I have been looking at something like that to connect my battery as well. They do make bigger heavy duty versions of those. That could handle the camplights larger draw.